Outboard Gas Tanks Boats for sale

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Outboard motor gas tanks

Outboard motor gas tanks

$25

Plymouth, Michigan

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Posted Over 1 Month

Johnson outboard boat motor gas tank only - $25 Calls only 734-459-5243 before 9:00 PM - Sorry no Text. Posting removed when item is gone, otherwise IT'S STILL AVAILABLE! I will hold this item only during your travel time. BUY, REPAIR and TRADE for LIONEL & AMERICAN FLYER Train Collections or old transportation toys. We are also looking for a Classic car, Truck, SSR or a mild Hot Rod. Thanks, and have a great day.

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

$1

El Cajon, California

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

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Posted Over 1 Month

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.

SEA KING 12' JON BOAT & TRAILER w/8 HP 2 STROKE YAMAHA 2005 / 2 3GAL TANKS,ETC.

SEA KING 12' JON BOAT & TRAILER w/8 HP 2 STROKE YAMAHA 2005 / 2 3GAL TANKS,ETC.

$2,275

Mechanicsville, Virginia

Year -

Make MONTGOMERY WARD SEA KING

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

12' >1975 MONTGOMERY WARD SEA KING > V-HULL ALUMINUM BOAT W/ NEW GALVANIZED TRAILER . DUTTON-LAINSON BRAND . YAMAHA 2005> 2 STROKE 8 HP OUTBOARD , WITH UNDER 30 HRS. ON IT . BOAT IS TIGHT WITH ZERO LEAKS, AND HAS SWIVEL SEATS. 2 > 3 GALLON GAS TANKS WITH FITTINGS AND HOSES. TONGUE LOCK FOR TRAILER , AND STRAPS. FIRE ESTINGUISHER, 2 NEW LIFE JACKETS, 2 PADDLES. I HAVE EXTRA 4 NGK PLUGS, IMPELLER KIT AND HOUSING, YAMAHA OWNERS MANUAL, 6 QUARTS OF AMSOIL 2 STROKE OIL GAS TREATMENT, QUART OF AMSOIL MARINE GEAR LUBE, ENGINE COVER FOR MOTOR. *OUTBOARD HAS BEEN KEPT INDOORS. TRAILER IS LOW MILES, ALMOST NEW, GALVANIZED . PERMANENT TAGS FOR VA. ALL TITLES FOR BOAT AND TRAILER IN HAND . WILL DELIVER UP TO 100 MILES . BOAT STAYS DRY AS A BONE UNLESS WIFE KNOCKS OVER HER DRINK .

2001 Splendor Platinum 259 Cuddy Outboard

2001 Splendor Platinum 259 Cuddy Outboard

$17,000

Bradenton, Florida

Year 2001

Make Splendor

Model Platinum 259 Cuddy Outboard

Category -

Length 26'

Posted Over 1 Month

2001 Splendor Platinum 259 Cuddy Outboard, You will not find a better Splendor Catamaran new or used. Immaculate.For sale by owner. Clear Florida Title and trailer registration. Don't miss this boat. Setup for extended cruising.2001 SPLENDOR PLATINUM CUDDY, customized by the owner who was a boat designer for a big name boat manufacturer. There are $30,000 in extras and upgrades in this incredible vessel. Run almost exclusively in fresh water.Draft: 12in engine up. Condition: like newEngine: like new Yamaha OX66 V225hp with 250 original hours, professionally maintained Trailer: like newNew micron ablative bottom paint professionally applied in April 2016.Engine just had impeller replaced, new plugs installed, lower unit oil replaced, gas tanks and water tanks are topped off, new batteries.2 52 gal fuel tanks can run 260+ miles on a single fuel up at 4000 rpms at 20 knots cruise.Comes with marine AC and Heat. Pressure Water. Refrigeration. Swim platform and tow eye for tubes, skis or boards.All power is professionally setup to run off a single Honda 1000eu (not included) on dedicated fuel line.This boat is immaculate. The original owner is a boat designer / quality control engineer for a well known boat manufacturer.The boat's features include:On deck:All handrails of any kind are stainless steel, not aluminum.All cleats are blue ionized.Hand rail is extra tall.All canvasses are like new with plastic windows or screen option.Canvasses include; Cabana, Bimini top. Fore Deck Fly which allows interior cabin to be ventilated during rainstorms without leaking.Screens for both cabin hatches.Two extra anchors (Danforth) and rope.Interior cabin:Queen-sized bed in cabin with storage underneath.Interior lighting.A/C vents.Porta Potty and sink with 20 gallon fresh water tank.Snap-in carpet.Aft compartment:5,000 BTU heat pump.Marine Air Systems Cabin Mate Air Conditioner Model LM TK.Wired to run Honda generator for heat pump and vents exhaust (generator not included).Twin 52 gallon fuel tanks.Bridge:Hidden ship to shore radio.Antenna is located mid-ship at cockpit.GPSCompassRemovable mount with cartography (Chesapeake Bay disk included)Cockpit refrigeratorFolding front window (to access bow and deck)Fire extinguisherLarge, double post hide-away dining table.Table top Century Matchless propane stove (model #496001)VHS Shakespeare SE2510Stern:Outboard, 2001 Yamaha OX66 fuel injected Salt water series.2-foot fiberglass Swim Step (at waterline) with fold-down stepladder.4-blade stainless propeller (extra prop too!)Hand-held shower in enclosed compartment.Trailer:2001, 24-foot, tandem axle, galvanized trailer.4-wheel surge drum brakes and mono-leaf springs.w spare

1986 AquaSport  Force Outboard 125 hp W/ Trailer

1986 AquaSport Force Outboard 125 hp W/ Trailer

$3,000

Pasadena, Maryland

Year 1986

Make Sea Ray

Model AquaSport

Category Bowrider Boats

Length 1986.0

Posted Over 1 Month

1986 AquaSport Force Outboard 125 hp Just serviced with receipt. Perfect compression 120 on all cylinders Has a new water impeller Throttle cables has been adjusted With trailer Comes with clear title Vessel is solid needs bottom painted, the inside is in really good condition, bimmeny top included Has minor wear and tear but runs really well Needs a starter and propeller The internal gas tank needs to be cleaned. currently using external gas tanks (included 6 gallon tank being bypassed)

1997 Myacht Houseboat 45' Cabin Cruiser, Twin Outboard Motors & Trailer

1997 Myacht Houseboat 45' Cabin Cruiser, Twin Outboard Motors & Trailer

$46,000

Entriken, Pennsylvania

Year 1997

Make Myacht

Model 45 Cabin Cruiser

Category Houseboats

Length 45.0

Posted Over 1 Month

Up for sale is a 1997 Myacht Houseboat 45' Cabin Cruiser with Twin 90HP Outboard Motors and a storage trailer. Boat has been used in fresh water lake only. Lots of extras and upgrades. Original owner installed 4 electric trolley motors in the bow and aft to make docking easier. But I've never got them to work. The helm includes a fish and depth finder with a remote to turn on the Onan generator installed in the aft. The generator has it's own gas tank that can supply full electricity to the boat for about a week. Large holding tank for black water is stored in the starboard pontoon. Fresh water tank is located under the guest bed. Just installed a Tankless Water Heater for unlimited HOT water. Two propane tanks run the hot water heater, the gas stove, oven and heater. Air conditioner is mounted on the roof. There's an L shaped recliner sofa in the living room with a stereo and speakers throughout the boat and on the top deck. The dining room has an expandable table with 4 stools along with a WiFi enabled 40" HD TV & Bose stereo and speakers. The kitchen has a microwave, Propane/110V Refridgerator (just rebuilt), 4 burner stove, oven, dual sink with plenty of storage space throughout the boat. The bathroom has a marine toilet with a foot activated flusher, a sink, a three door medicine cabinet and a stand up shower with a powerful nozzle. The guest bedroom has a full size mattress and a storage closet. The master bedroom has a queen sized mattress with storage underneath, a 21" HD TV and plenty of storage room for hangers and clothes. There's a large enclosed patio in the front of the boat with sliding doors for entry into the boat. The canvas that encloses the front patio is a one-way privacy style canvas with zippers and are removable. There are sliding doors in the back of the boat to access the spiral staircase to the top deck. There's an additional small fridge in the back of the boat and an ice maker. The water slide is accessible from the top deck, which is spacious with a large 6 person patio set and two storage bays. There are 8 12V batteries that can supply electricity to the boat. There are 2 battery chargers for the 4 batteries in the bow and 4 batteries in the aft. When the boat is plugged into shore power, it will supply 110V to the boat. Otherwise, you need to turn on the generator to supply 110V to the boat. There's a city water hookup for dock hookup. Otherwise, the water pump must be turned on to supply water from the fresh water tank. The boat is in good shape and needs some cleaning externally. The boat is used 6 months of the year and winterized and stored on a storage trailer for the off-season. The boat is currently dry stored on a trailer at Raystown Lake, PA. If you'd like to see the boat, please let me know. An end slip at the Raystown Lake Resort is included with the boat, on Y dock. Local pickup only and buyer must arrange for shipping. The included trailer is a custom built 4 axle trailer for hauling the boat out of the water. It is not wired or setup for highway travel. Feel free to ask questions. The boat is sold as is.

1984 Steigercraft 18’ Fishing Boat - Center Console, Outboard Motor & Trailer

1984 Steigercraft 18’ Fishing Boat - Center Console, Outboard Motor & Trailer

$2,600

New York, New York

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

1984 Steigercraft 18’ Fishing Boat with Center Console, Outboard Motor & Trailer This offer is for 3 items; the boat, the trailer and the outboard motor. All realistic offers will be considered. Note: This boat is not for the beginner or novice boat owner! NO Bartering - I want to sell ONLY!!! Absolutely No Bids from outside of the Continental USA. The boat is a 1984 Steigercraft 18 ft Fishing Boat with center console. Included is an Evinrude 88 HP Outboard Motor and an EZ Loader Trailer. The fiberglass reinforced plywood deck is in need of repair. The wood, which is not visible is located under the deck and is what needs replacing. This was the last year wood was used for decks by Steigercraft. The bottom of the boat has never been painted. There are lights on the trailer. The 1997 Evinrude 88 Special, 90 HP Engine, Outboard Motor engine was running when the boat was last used. The motor has not been started and cannot be started because it was winterized and if I start it, I would have to again re-winterize it. In response to a question I received since posting this item, as to what is in the bow; if you take a look at the pictures on my listing, you can see the following: the bow rail which is attached to the fiberglass platform. This platform is about 30 inches deep. Underneath that is a space which appears in the photo as a dark area, this is about 1 foot of space between the platform and the anchor box which is about 10 inches higher than the deck and it has a door to the anchor storage area. We have always used this as a seat to weight the boat but it is not padded and we would put multiple towels to cushion. The anchor storage can hold upwards of 800 feet of 1/2 inch rope. I would like to add that if you are going to check out any pricing web sites, keep this in mind: the boats that are listed on these sites is stripped down to the boat only, no extras. I have extras on my boat; stainless steel rail, deluxe console, cleat package, stainless steel rod holders, the estimate for the trailer and the motor have to be evaluated separately, then added to the boat estimate. These sites do not take into consideration the 3 item package. I have more pictures - I will send them to you. If you still need more you will have to be specific as to what else you want me to photograph. I have no problem sending as many pictures as you would like to see. Please let me know what you want to see more of. I can send 5 pictures at one time in a message response. My reasoning is that I will not pay extra to Ebay to post pictures. I strongly suggest that you view the boat prior to making any monetary offers. Thank you for looking! I am going to include questions and answers, so they are not duplicated. Question #1 When was the motor winterized or when was it last run? Answer #1 About three years. Question #2 What do you mean that the engine has been winterized? Has it been flushed of gas and marine ethanol stabilizer been added to the fuel tank and lines? What does it cost to have it re-winterized? I asking because it is key to know whether or not the engine runs. Also does it leak at all or has the deck damage been done because its not covered? Finally does it have a clean title? Answer #2 Winterizing is when all the gas is removed by running it, till the engine stops. Then the spark plugs are removed and the engine is sprayed with a lubricant and oil mixture. Then the spark plugs are loosely returned to their holes and the engine is manually turned a few times and left alone so the oil is distributed to all parts of the cylinders. There is no fuel tank, I have three 6 Gallon gas tanks. I am NOT starting it up - but it would cost about $150.00 if it was to be done. Next - part of your question regarding the deck - it is in need of replacement due to the age of the boat. These things wear out. Finally - it does not have a title because boats that are longer than 14 feet that have an engine and are manufactured prior to 1987 - DO NOT REQUIRE A TITLE - ONLY REGISTRATION Hope this answers all your questions. Question #3 Without knowing if the engine works... the boat is just a hull. Buying used stuff is tricky and I would have to know that the engine ran. NOT interested unless it could be started or checked by a marina in some way. I was going to suggest that I pay for the wintering or split it. Answer #3 In the description, I have also said I would consider selling just the boat and the trailer. If you were really interested in the boat and trailer, you could buy a motor somewhere else. This boat is really not for a beginner. I will state it again, this is for someone who is experienced with do-it-yourself handyman repair. It is a great deal, for the right buyer. Question #4 I am a general contractor and have been for 15 years ...so the wood deck and minor things of this sort don't scare me. We already have a boat and have had it for 8 years.. do you have any idea how much the 88 is worth running? I need to do some research as to what a motor would cost to put on that boat...If that one doesn't run. It is a great motor for that boat. The hull and trailer look good.. How low are you willing to go? 2400? Is it still for sale. could you give me a direct email? Answer #4 The 88 is worth what someone is willing to pay. What I am asking for the MOTOR ONLY – WITHOUT THE BOAT OR TRAILER, is $850.00. I would be willing to sell the BOAT, and the TRAILER, together WITHOUT THE MOTOR, for $2400.00. I can not supply you with a direct email, I will respond to communications through ebay. Question #5 hola soy de puerto rico el costo de enviarlo para pr es costoso le ofresco 2,000 y bpy y lo compro dejeme saber Answer #5 I don't speak Spanish and this is only local pick up Question #6 Can you take more photos? You are asking for an outright sale without being able to see what is being sold. Come on... The digital photos cost nothing. If you want the boat to sell, put up more photos. Answer #6 The pictures are only to give a basic idea of the boats appearance, they are NOT the total selling tool. If a party is seriously interested in buying my boat, they would schedule an appointment to inspect the merchandise. I really feel that I have photographed the boat as well as can be. I would expect a perspective buyer would not base a purchase on pictures solely, Anyway, I wouldn't feel comfortable with someone making a blind purchase. So contact me for an appointment if you are interested. Question #7 What is the model number of the motor? The color of the hood does not appear to be 1997 vintage. Looks like a mid 80's. Answer #7 I don't know the model number. I bought the motor new myself replacing an older motor I had, which was also an Evinrude. Question #8 I would like to come look at the boat and run the engine. if the engine runs and the compression checks out I will buy it. if it is not to my satisfaction I will winterize the boat at my cost. I am a boat mechanic in Delaware and can come up tomorrow morning. Answer #8 You are welcome to come and view the boat. I do not want to run the engine - as I said before - It was running when I last used it. Please call me to discuss an appointment to view. My daughter is fielding the calls for me. 1-347-525-0406 her name is Diane. She can schedule an appointment for me. It cannot be run because the cables are frozen, the trailer needs air in the tires and where the engine is, it can not be accessed as such. There-by rendering it difficult to move. I am very honest about all aspects of this package. I have no qualms about supplying any info you need. Question #9 will give you 1200 as is for the package. Answer #9 I very much appreciate offers, even when it is $800.00 less than my last offer, which I turned down. Have a nice day.

1977 Phantom tri hull with 1978 Johnson outboard and Dilly trailer

1977 Phantom tri hull with 1978 Johnson outboard and Dilly trailer

$1,500

Reno, Nevada

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

1977 Phantom Tri hull with 1978 Johnson 55 outboard and 1977 Dilly trailer.  Good condition, Lake/river ready (2) 5 gallon gas tanks, fish finder, Walker downrigger never used, canvas canopy. Will deliver to buyer within 100 mi. All titles clean.

17’ Manatee Cuddy Cabin with 100 hp Mariner outboard (includes trailer)

17’ Manatee Cuddy Cabin with 100 hp Mariner outboard (includes trailer)

$2,100

Mattituck, New York

Year 1978

Make Manatee

Model -

Category Cuddy Cabin Boats

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Hull: 1978 17’ Manatee Cuddy Cabin Refurbished interior and side panels Clean and well maintained Garaged and trailered for last 6 years Bow and stern running lights Locked cuddy cabin for anchor and gear storage Engine: 1988 Mariner 100 hp outboard 2 stroke / 4 cylinder oil injected Power trim Cable steering Recently replaced starter Excellent running condition, no major issues Detailed repair manual included Earmuffs for freshwater rinse cycle included Features/Accessories: Garmin fishfinder 140 depth finder w/ owner’s manual Brand new Rule 1000GPH manual bilge pump Brand new 800 amp battery and spare Three 6.6 gal removable gas tanks (19.8 gal total capacity) Compass Portable swim Ladder Anchor Fenders, oar, and line included Fire extinguisher Trailer: 1998 Load rite roller-type Manual winch with spare cable Heavy duty tie down strap Working lights CONTACT INFO:Jack [email protected]

16' LUND FISHING BOAT CENTER CONSOLE  LOADED!!   50 HP MERCURY Outboard! TRAILER

16' LUND FISHING BOAT CENTER CONSOLE LOADED!! 50 HP MERCURY Outboard! TRAILER

$4,200

Morriston, Florida

Year 1977

Make LUND

Model PIKE DELUXE BOAT

Category -

Length 16.0

Posted Over 1 Month

I'm selling my " Lund 16 foot Center console steering fishing Boat / Trailer with 1987 Mercury Classic 50 with MANY EXTRA ACCESSORIES " as shown in the photo's! 3 swivel seats, foot controlled trolling motor, live well, fishing pole side mounted swival / storage compartments, locator / fish finder, $500 - tilt / trim motor control, rear trolling splash guards, beldge pumps, in line fuel water separator recently installed, cover holders (needs a new cover), New Tires, New Battery, lights, EZ Roll-off trailer, 2 gas Tanks (1 full of NEW GAS AND READY TO GO)! Never seen salt water and originally from Minnesota (LAND OF TEN THOUSAND LAKES)! Handles in the water good! Starts & Runs like a dream!!! I can be reached at 847.961.0927 for more information.

Pontoon Boat with 50 HP Evinrude outboard motor and Hoosier Float-On Trailer

Pontoon Boat with 50 HP Evinrude outboard motor and Hoosier Float-On Trailer

$5,500

Gaylord, Michigan

Year 1975

Make Aquapatio

Model Sanpan

Category Pontoon Boats

Length 24.0

Posted Over 1 Month

1975 SANPAN 24’ Pontoon Boat, 20' Deck with 1977 50 HP EVINRUDE Outboard and 2008 Hoosier Float-On Trailer. Complete Rebuild in 2008, (New parts in 2008 as follows) New 1/2" treated plywood floor. New Outdoor carpet. New seats. New Helm. New Steering box. New Double Bimini. New bluetooth Marine DVD/CD Stereo. 4 New outdoor Speakers and a Powered Subwoofer. New Garmin Color Fish finder with water temperature sensor. New full size Propane BBQ Grill mounted on the front swim deck. New 100 watt KC Fog Lights. Fire extinguisher. Duel gas tanks. 2008 Hoosier Trailer.(Trailer model #WFB224 List price New $2195) Motor starts and runs good. Went out on the lake for a boat ride 06/06/2015. 50 to 1 mix gas 2 stroke. The original pontoon boat ladder. I just replaced the battery with a new deep cycle marine battery on 05/15/2015($90) The Double Bimini is 8'+2'+8'. Can be used 8' in the front, 8' in the back or 18' over all. Nice for fishing sun or rain. The boat is Blue and white. The trailer is black. Tires have good rubber. Great family boat. Ready to go. Also for sale locally, so will cancel auction if it sells before end of auction. Thanks for looking!

1986 Boston Whaler 17' Newport w/90hp Mercury outboard & all accessories

1986 Boston Whaler 17' Newport w/90hp Mercury outboard & all accessories

$7,000

Quincy, Massachusetts

Year 1986

Make Boston Whaler

Model Newport

Category -

Length 17.0

Posted Over 1 Month

1986 Boston Whaler Newport. The Newport model was built as a family friendly boat, using the 17' Montauk hull. Boat is in good running condition, maintained by a mechanical engineer. The boat is ready to fish!! Shows it's age in scratches and oxidized gel coat that needs to be polished, wood is in good condition. Has blue original Mills Brothers bimini top, which has a few patches, as well as trailer cover. Includes life jackets, fish finder, radio, and GPS, anchor, lines, bumpers, and trailer. Two Tempo 12 gallon gas tanks under pilot's reversible seat. 1986 90hp Mercury in-line 6 cylinder "Tower of Power" two stroke runs strong, comes with Mercury factory service manuals. If you're getting the impression that this is a very reliable, very serviceable, very not-showroom, and not show-off boat, then you're getting the idea. There's a lot of good times left in this boat for you!

1968 Lone Star 14ft V-Hull Aluminum w/1968 Evinrude 55HP Outboard Motor

1968 Lone Star 14ft V-Hull Aluminum w/1968 Evinrude 55HP Outboard Motor

$1,200

Colorado Springs, Colorado

Year 1968

Make Lone Star

Model -

Category Sport Fishing Boats

Length 14.0

Posted Over 1 Month

This classic vessel is perfect for trying your fishing hand or going for a float on the water. The Lone-Star fishing boat has some worn out seats, and areas with chipped paint. The motor runs well at low to mid throttle, but bogs down at higher throttle. A professional tune up would do wonders by getting the carburetor set-up properly (~$250 for a professional tune up). We never tried to pull anyone on skis or a tube with it, but after reading some boat enthusiast forums it appears that the 55HP Evinrude motor should be able to pull someone on skis or in a tube behind you. The boat has not been run in a year, but we would be happy to start up the motor for you if you are considering buying this boat. Feel free to contact me to set-up a meeting to see the boat in person. Features: - 3 fishing pole holsters - 2 5-gallon gas tanks - Electric start motor New Parts on a Classic Boat: - Windshield- Horn- Speedometer New parts on Boat Trailer: - Tires- Axle bearings- Axle seals History: We are not the original owners of this boat, but we have taken it out to Colorado lakes (high altitude) and been able to depend on the Lone-Star to perform well. The boat has been kept in good shape and has been tuned up over the years we have had it. Shipping: - Available for local pick-up. Payment: - Cash/ Check in person - PayPal

2003 Boston Whaler 150 Sport/2012 Yamaha F60 Four Stroke Outboard

2003 Boston Whaler 150 Sport/2012 Yamaha F60 Four Stroke Outboard

$16,000

Manasquan, New Jersey

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Don't miss out on this rare opportunity to purchase a gently used, meticulously cared for, 1 owner Boston Whaler. Boat comes complete with convenience package (includes bow rail and cushions which are in brand new condition), Coast Guard package and matching EZ Loader trailer. Boat was professionally re-powered at the end of 2012 with a Yamaha F60 that shows less than 10 hours and has warranty extending until 2017. 2 portable 6 gallon Yamaha gas tanks are also included. Serious inquiries only at (973) 818-2531.

1984 BLUE FIN 16

1984 BLUE FIN 16" SPORTSMAN 6 PERSON ALUMINUM MOTORBOAT W/50 HP MERCURY OUTBOARD

$3,000

Sandy Creek, New York

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

This is a 2 owner boat that has been in the same family for 30 years. It has been stored inside a garage during the winters with a cover. It has not been in the water for the last 6 years. It does need a little work to be ready for the water. There is a short in the electrical wiring for the running lights and horn. The hydraulics for the engine tilt/lift needs a new gasket kit, it slowly leaks and the engine will drop back down. * The trailer is not road worthy for this boat. It is too small and has only been used to put the boat in & out of the water and to store it on in a garage through the winter. There are 2 - 6 gallon gas tanks included. The inside of the boat has been rebuilt 12 years ago with marine plywood, All of the flooring, consoles and seating were rebuilt. There is a canvas cover included with the boat.This boat has been on Sandy Pond & Lake Ontario for the 30 years.It is located at 14 Wilder Drive, Sandy Creek, New York 13145.My Phone Number is 315-303-7013 - I work form 10 AM to 8 PM, M - F.* Please Call after 9 PM New York Time.I am selling the boat for my 86 year old Mother In-Law who no longer wants the boat.