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1984 Steigercraft 18’ Fishing Boat - Center Console, Outboard Motor & Trailer

1984 Steigercraft 18’ Fishing Boat - Center Console, Outboard Motor & Trailer

$2,600

New York, New York

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

1984 Steigercraft 18’ Fishing Boat with Center Console, Outboard Motor & Trailer This offer is for 3 items; the boat, the trailer and the outboard motor. All realistic offers will be considered. Note: This boat is not for the beginner or novice boat owner! NO Bartering - I want to sell ONLY!!! Absolutely No Bids from outside of the Continental USA. The boat is a 1984 Steigercraft 18 ft Fishing Boat with center console. Included is an Evinrude 88 HP Outboard Motor and an EZ Loader Trailer. The fiberglass reinforced plywood deck is in need of repair. The wood, which is not visible is located under the deck and is what needs replacing. This was the last year wood was used for decks by Steigercraft. The bottom of the boat has never been painted. There are lights on the trailer. The 1997 Evinrude 88 Special, 90 HP Engine, Outboard Motor engine was running when the boat was last used. The motor has not been started and cannot be started because it was winterized and if I start it, I would have to again re-winterize it. In response to a question I received since posting this item, as to what is in the bow; if you take a look at the pictures on my listing, you can see the following: the bow rail which is attached to the fiberglass platform. This platform is about 30 inches deep. Underneath that is a space which appears in the photo as a dark area, this is about 1 foot of space between the platform and the anchor box which is about 10 inches higher than the deck and it has a door to the anchor storage area. We have always used this as a seat to weight the boat but it is not padded and we would put multiple towels to cushion. The anchor storage can hold upwards of 800 feet of 1/2 inch rope. I would like to add that if you are going to check out any pricing web sites, keep this in mind: the boats that are listed on these sites is stripped down to the boat only, no extras. I have extras on my boat; stainless steel rail, deluxe console, cleat package, stainless steel rod holders, the estimate for the trailer and the motor have to be evaluated separately, then added to the boat estimate. These sites do not take into consideration the 3 item package. I have more pictures - I will send them to you. If you still need more you will have to be specific as to what else you want me to photograph. I have no problem sending as many pictures as you would like to see. Please let me know what you want to see more of. I can send 5 pictures at one time in a message response. My reasoning is that I will not pay extra to Ebay to post pictures. I strongly suggest that you view the boat prior to making any monetary offers. Thank you for looking! I am going to include questions and answers, so they are not duplicated. Question #1 When was the motor winterized or when was it last run? Answer #1 About three years. Question #2 What do you mean that the engine has been winterized? Has it been flushed of gas and marine ethanol stabilizer been added to the fuel tank and lines? What does it cost to have it re-winterized? I asking because it is key to know whether or not the engine runs. Also does it leak at all or has the deck damage been done because its not covered? Finally does it have a clean title? Answer #2 Winterizing is when all the gas is removed by running it, till the engine stops. Then the spark plugs are removed and the engine is sprayed with a lubricant and oil mixture. Then the spark plugs are loosely returned to their holes and the engine is manually turned a few times and left alone so the oil is distributed to all parts of the cylinders. There is no fuel tank, I have three 6 Gallon gas tanks. I am NOT starting it up - but it would cost about $150.00 if it was to be done. Next - part of your question regarding the deck - it is in need of replacement due to the age of the boat. These things wear out. Finally - it does not have a title because boats that are longer than 14 feet that have an engine and are manufactured prior to 1987 - DO NOT REQUIRE A TITLE - ONLY REGISTRATION Hope this answers all your questions. Question #3 Without knowing if the engine works... the boat is just a hull. Buying used stuff is tricky and I would have to know that the engine ran. NOT interested unless it could be started or checked by a marina in some way. I was going to suggest that I pay for the wintering or split it. Answer #3 In the description, I have also said I would consider selling just the boat and the trailer. If you were really interested in the boat and trailer, you could buy a motor somewhere else. This boat is really not for a beginner. I will state it again, this is for someone who is experienced with do-it-yourself handyman repair. It is a great deal, for the right buyer. Question #4 I am a general contractor and have been for 15 years ...so the wood deck and minor things of this sort don't scare me. We already have a boat and have had it for 8 years.. do you have any idea how much the 88 is worth running? I need to do some research as to what a motor would cost to put on that boat...If that one doesn't run. It is a great motor for that boat. The hull and trailer look good.. How low are you willing to go? 2400? Is it still for sale. could you give me a direct email? Answer #4 The 88 is worth what someone is willing to pay. What I am asking for the MOTOR ONLY – WITHOUT THE BOAT OR TRAILER, is $850.00. I would be willing to sell the BOAT, and the TRAILER, together WITHOUT THE MOTOR, for $2400.00. I can not supply you with a direct email, I will respond to communications through ebay. Question #5 hola soy de puerto rico el costo de enviarlo para pr es costoso le ofresco 2,000 y bpy y lo compro dejeme saber Answer #5 I don't speak Spanish and this is only local pick up Question #6 Can you take more photos? You are asking for an outright sale without being able to see what is being sold. Come on... The digital photos cost nothing. If you want the boat to sell, put up more photos. Answer #6 The pictures are only to give a basic idea of the boats appearance, they are NOT the total selling tool. If a party is seriously interested in buying my boat, they would schedule an appointment to inspect the merchandise. I really feel that I have photographed the boat as well as can be. I would expect a perspective buyer would not base a purchase on pictures solely, Anyway, I wouldn't feel comfortable with someone making a blind purchase. So contact me for an appointment if you are interested. Question #7 What is the model number of the motor? The color of the hood does not appear to be 1997 vintage. Looks like a mid 80's. Answer #7 I don't know the model number. I bought the motor new myself replacing an older motor I had, which was also an Evinrude. Question #8 I would like to come look at the boat and run the engine. if the engine runs and the compression checks out I will buy it. if it is not to my satisfaction I will winterize the boat at my cost. I am a boat mechanic in Delaware and can come up tomorrow morning. Answer #8 You are welcome to come and view the boat. I do not want to run the engine - as I said before - It was running when I last used it. Please call me to discuss an appointment to view. My daughter is fielding the calls for me. 1-347-525-0406 her name is Diane. She can schedule an appointment for me. It cannot be run because the cables are frozen, the trailer needs air in the tires and where the engine is, it can not be accessed as such. There-by rendering it difficult to move. I am very honest about all aspects of this package. I have no qualms about supplying any info you need. Question #9 will give you 1200 as is for the package. Answer #9 I very much appreciate offers, even when it is $800.00 less than my last offer, which I turned down. Have a nice day.

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

$1

El Cajon, California

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.

93' Astro Bass Boat 98' Mercury Outboard EFI 200hp Motor ***UPDATE***

93' Astro Bass Boat 98' Mercury Outboard EFI 200hp Motor ***UPDATE***

$4,500

Laredo, Texas

Year 1993

Make Astro

Model -

Category -

Length 19.9

Posted Over 1 Month

For Sale is an Astro Bass Boat, Trailer, and Motor only. Boat hull is shot. It is a 93' Fiberglass 19' 11" length boat. Trailer is original and in good condition. It has a 98' Mercury Outboard 200HP Motor. Motor is near mint condition. Motor Starts and runs smooth. Has Electric Jack Plate. Have titles for all: trailer, boat, and motor. (Trolling Motor and Fish Finders/Sonar not included) Serious inquires only. Selling as is. Bidders with less than 10 feedback must contact me prior to placing offer or purchasing or will void purchase. Thank you for looking. Feel free to contact if any questions, God Bless. ***Local Pickup Only*** Note: Boat is up for sale locally and will remove from eBay if sold. ***Update*** 5/26/15 - Had a mechanic to verify compression on all cylinders. To all who asked and who just came across the auction, the compression on all cylinders is 120 PSI. Thank you for your interest.

15 ft tri hull   fishing boat with 15 h.p. outboard motor and trailer

15 ft tri hull fishing boat with 15 h.p. outboard motor and trailer

$995

Wheeling, Illinois

Year 1980

Make Renn-Yan

Model -

Category -

Length 15.0

Posted Over 1 Month

It is older boat completely remodeled for walk around , with new marine carpet and home maid cover that permit you to fish during the rain and sleep comfortable by two person. 15 h.p. 4 cycle Mariner 1999 has approx. 40 hours. This engine I kept as a kicker motor on my 23 footer on Lake Michigan and only last two year it was on the boat that i am selling. This motor had tune up by mechanic that I have receipt. The boat kept in garage in Wheeling Il. You have to call Anna 847-465-9455 and arrange time to see boat. If you have any question about boat call Boris 941-822-2094. The price of $995.00 really is price of motor alone/ It is good bargen. Good luck

Extremely Rare 1974 Chrysler Conqueror 135 Boat Outboard Chrysler 130hp Mopar

Extremely Rare 1974 Chrysler Conqueror 135 Boat Outboard Chrysler 130hp Mopar

$2,250

Glendale, Arizona

Category -

Length 17.0

Posted Over 1 Month

Extremely Rare Complete CBC (Chrysler Boat Corporation) Conqueror 135.This was an estate find and what a find it was. Equipped with the original Chrysler 130 4 cylinder 2 stroke motor, and sitting on a beautiful galvanized Sportsman single axle trailer.I personally brought this boat to my boat mechanic and had it checked out. The motor has 120 psi of compression on all 4 cylinders. Runs like a champ. The trim motor is a little bit lazy but functions with some man power for going up. Gravity helps it down when trim is engaged. I am not sure the trim and electronic choke switches are original. The fuel pump on the 130 was always troublesome but no need to worry this one was removed and an electronic fuel pump was installed. The interior is original and you can tell, it definitely needs an overhaul in the beauty department. The windshield has a crack on the passenger side from top to bottom and has a crack about 2 inches long on the corner. The hull is nice with only a few very small chips. I figure whoever buys this gem is going to want all the original parts so I am leaving this boat AS IS.Thanks for looking and if you have any questions at all please feel free to contact me, 602-689-1780.

Wellcraft Elite 200, 19'6

Wellcraft Elite 200, 19'6" Inboard/outboard, Loaded, Clean, Ready to Ski or Fish

$3,900

Center Hill, Florida

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Just in Time for the big Labor Day Weekend Just got this on trade. Was repowered only 160hrs ago. Complete with everything. Garmin GPS, Depth Finder, Honda 5hp 4 stroke trolling motor, CLEAN and not tore up. Everything is nice, worst it need is maybe the carpet cleaned but it is not bad. HAS the BIG Chevy V-6 with Mercruiser out drive, Power trim and tilt. Was in the water in the last 30days. Needs nothing but someone who wants to have fun. Seats 8+ with the open bow. Has swim platform also. Includes Tandem Aluminum Trailer. We Open by appointment, Tues-F 9-4 for inspections or Pickups. NO SATURDAYS OR SUNDAYS---NO EXCEPTIONS--Sorry! Call anytime. Be sure to look at our other listings! Please bid only if you are truly interested in buying this unit. Questions? Call Fred M-F 9-4:00 EST at 727-423-2160. Some of the time I am at the store or can make an appointment to be there and can do a "walk around' the equipment and give you exact answers. You are welcome to inspect PRIOR to purchase OR Have a local Dealer or mechanic inspect it if you want. Everything is Sold As Is! If it should break in half while loading, you get all the pieces (we have never had that happen!)---This is an auction. Your bid is a contract and we are placing these units here to sell. ThanX for looking and good luck on bidding. This is a No Reserve offering. Questions? Just E-mail us and we will try to answer them. Due to items being left long periods we must impose a 60 day maximum storage from the date of sale (not Date of Payment). If you fail to get the item out of our yard we will RESELL to cover fees and make room for new items. There will be no refunds for any reason should the item be left past the storage time 60 days, It is the responsibility of the Customer NO EXCEPTIONS. There will be no further notice of any type. We can load on most any trailer or truck. You will have to make your own arrangements for shipping. Shipping Contacts: New Guy, Located here in Fl, Can haul up to 27000#s. You can reach him at Cuchens Enterprises Ask for Kelvin 850-699-2307, He has hyd ramps so he can unload anywhere!. Hotshot Express is a good hauler in the East 1/3 of the US, Can Haul 6000#s in an enclosed trailer. Call Ray @352-804-4285. If you are near the I 75 Corridor between Michigan and Florida, Call Ralph Ulrich @ 810-523-1316. He is reasonable on items traveling North but shop around; there may be better prices available. Also: Try Freightquote.com or call them for a fast quote, 1-800-323-5441. They do anything from 150#s up Good source we have found--get a quote from www.uship.com they are a posting board and sometimes you can get a super rate from a Company or Driver that has Less Than A Load (LTL) and is going your way! They sometimes take time to get a good Rate! Buyer is responsible for all shipping costs and arrangements. On select small items we will package for UPS/FedEx will call shipments for an additional fee. We accept Certified Funds, and company or personal checks (these will have to clear bank before equipment is released). We must have verification of payment within 3 days of the close of the auction. If you get a second chance offer, report it to ebay Sorry for all the stipulations but a few difficult people can make it hard for the rest of us!!! As one of our favorites artists in Grand Cayman sings “ God is Great, Beer is Good and Some People are Just Plain CRAZY”. No offense to anyone meant or taken!

Boat 17', Motor and Trailer

Boat 17', Motor and Trailer

$1,700

Hollywood, Florida

Year 1967

Make Renken

Model -

Category -

Length 17.0

Posted Over 1 Month

For sale, a nice, in very good condition, 17 feet, Renken Boat. Has a 85 HP Mercury outboard motor in mint condition, but does not run for 5 years more or less. Included there is a boat trailer in excellent shape. Recently I had a 4,800 miles trip hauling this trailer, without any problem. All electrical is new, trailer was rewired, have new lights and new connector, new winch and trailer jack. Has good tires. Boat has all the controls for motor. The whole equipment needs a good boat mechanic, some TLC and a missing parts, in order to reinstall the motor and make she ready for summer! Feel free to ask me any question, or set up an apointment to see the boat. Thank you.

86 21FT RINKER MOTOR CRUISER

86 21FT RINKER MOTOR CRUISER

$5,700

Pleasant Lake, Michigan

Year 1986

Make -

Model V205

Category -

Length 21 FEET

Posted Over 1 Month

I bought this craft five years ago and intended to use it on lake Michigan for cruising but health issues changed that. This boat was sold by a young man Upper Michigan who was the second owner. He told me that and older gentleman had the boat and something happened to him and the boat set for many years before he got it. He decided or his wife decided to sell the boat because of money problems. Anyway I improved the boat by installing a sink, water tank, pump and a pump out porta potty. I also installed shore power hook up. It has gps, ship to shore radio, and an old depth sounder. I installed in addition to a new bilge pump an emergency high volume pump. The boat also has a second motor a 9.8 hp Nissan four cycle outboard for emergency use or trolling. I bought this engine new and it has low hours as I used it on a sailboat trip down the Mississippi and Tombigbee waterway. It sat in salt water for 3 weeks while I came back with a trailer. A second steering system was installed independent of the main power system. The Nissan engine runs off the main tank and has electric start and remote engine control. New Hi performance exhaust manifolds were installed on the v6 engine along with new thermostat, starter fuel lines etc. The fuel filter has been changed. Extra prop for each engine and a separate fuse box for accessories. The engine hour meter has 230 hours on it and it functions. I am a mechanic and ran tests on the engine compression etc. Darned good condition I would take it anywhere. I took out some seats to install the sink cabinet but have them they are in excellent condition, it could be returned to same condition as new. all new tires on trailer that is in excellent condition, a complete roller drive on type. The inertia brake cylinder needs to be replaced. I'm in my 70's now and ridding myself of some toys just to much to care for. This is a good buy for someone. Thanks for looking. Have any further questions please feel free call Tom 517 769-6616 before 9 pm please. (PLEASE NOTE I WILL CONSIDER ANY OFFERS AND WILL DEAL, I AM NOT A DEALER AND HAVE A 100% RATING AND WOULD LIKE TO KEEP IT.)

17' Boat, 85HP Motor and Trailer

17' Boat, 85HP Motor and Trailer

$1,450

Hollywood, Florida

Year 1967

Make Renken

Model -

Category -

Length 17.0

Posted Over 1 Month

Hello, this is a 1967 17' feet Renken Boat in very good condition. It has a solid fiberglass hull and an 85 HP Mercury model 850 outboard motor in mint condition (haven't used it in the past 5 years). Also includes a boat trailer in excellent shape. Trailer was rewired and all electrical is new, with new lights and new connector, new winch, trailer jack and good tires. Boat has all the controls for motor, but needs to be reassembled. The whole equipment needs a good boat mechanic and some TLC in order to reinstall the motor and accessories and make it ready for the summer! Trailer to be sold with Florida's DOT bill of sale and boat and motor with title. There will be no refund or returns for this item. Sale is final. Feel free to ask me any question, or set up an appointment to see the boat. Thank you.

2012 SEA RAY 450 Sundancer

2012 SEA RAY 450 Sundancer

$434,000

Jupiter, Florida

Year 2012

Make -

Model -

Category Motor Yachts

Length 45'

Posted Over 1 Month

2012 Sea Ray 450 Sundancer  Here's a "captain maintained 45 Sundancer" The owner's mechanic and detail team are  on a constant, regular schedule to do whatever needs to be done to keep this vessel in stellar condition. Boat lies in the water behind the owner's residence and is used exclusively for cruising the intercoastal. She is not run very hard. The Mercury outboard and dinghy are not included but can be purchased separately. The current owner has chosen his next boat and would like to make the switch quickly. Call me for a showing at your convenience.    THIS VESSEL LIES WITHIN 10 MILES OF THE LAUDERDALE BOAT SHOW...COME SEE IT AND SAVE.

1988 Bestway 44 Trawler MY

1988 Bestway 44 Trawler MY

$79,499

Fall River, Massachusetts

Year 1988

Make Bestway

Model 44 Trawler MY

Category Motor Yachts

Length 44'

Posted Over 1 Month

1988 Bestway 44 Trawler MY 1988 BESTWAY Motoryacht Trawler This is an excellent example of a Far East 44 Trawler/Motor Yacht. Maintained to yacht standards by a very knowledgeable boater with many years experience. "The Edge" just left the boatyard with a professional detailing, micron paint, & running gear overhaul. Interior shows very little wear, and has been constantly upgraded. The beautiful teak inlays are gorgeous, what these boats are famous  for. Engine room is maintained by a Volvo mechanic and highest quality oils are used. This vessel has a Walker Bay Rigid Inflatable with a new 4HP Suzuki. Crane davit is stainless and electric. Priced to move, offers encouraged as owner has bought outboard boat and is condo shopping !

2012 Sea Ray 450 Sundancer

2012 Sea Ray 450 Sundancer

$459,000

North Palm Beach, Florida

Year 2012

Make Sea Ray

Model 450 Sundancer

Category Motor Yachts

Length 45'

Posted Over 1 Month

2012 Sea Ray 450 Sundancer  Here's a "captain maintained", gorgeous 45 Sundancer. The owner's mechanic and detail team are  on a constant, regular schedule to do whatever needs to be done to keep this vessel in stellar condition. Boat lies in the water behind the owner's residence and is used exclusively for cruising the intercoastal; never fished. The Zodiac and Mercury outboard are not included but can be purchased separately. The current owner has chosen his next boat and would like to make the switch quickly. Call me for a showing at your convenience.

Alumicraft 16ft' Vhull Fishing Boat with motor and trailer

Alumicraft 16ft' Vhull Fishing Boat with motor and trailer

$950

Omaha, Nebraska

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

I have an aluminum Vhull fishing boat in great shape. The boat was re-welded and painted a few years ago and floats and gets around great. The trailer is newer and has all new wheel bearings, lights and ligh wiring. The trailer was also painted recently. I have all the correct paper work to get this boat registered. The outboard moter is a late 70's Ted Williams 7.5 HP. It worked great last year but wont start this year. I was told it just needs a fuel pump from a friend who is a small enging mechanic, which is a quick cheap fix. Serious inquiries only please. Please text or call 402-650-9455.

1979 Bahama 15.5 Feet -  55HP Johnson OB Motor  100hrs - Trailer w/ New Tires

1979 Bahama 15.5 Feet - 55HP Johnson OB Motor 100hrs - Trailer w/ New Tires

$1,979

Inglewood, California

Year 1979

Make Bahama

Model -

Category -

Length 15.5

Posted Over 1 Month

This is my 91 year old grandfather's boat. He probably should have sold it years ago, although IT WAS NOT NEGLECTED, especially when it came to the motor. My grandfather (retired mechanic and engineer) has continuously maintained the motor. The Motor is a Rebuilt 55HP Johnson Outboard with less than 100 Hours. The trailer is included and has brand new tires as will as rollers. Also includes life preservers, emergency kit, years of previously owned pride and joy to be enjoyed by others now.On Dec-01-14 at 12:14:37 PST, seller added the following information: Includes new battery, used anchor, other used boating accessoriesOn Dec-01-14 at 14:53:06 PST, seller added the following information: Had 10 gallon built in fuel tank and additional 6 gallon external. Gas mix being used is 1/50 oil/gas.On Dec-05-14 at 19:54:02 PST, seller added the following information: *** TRAILER INCLUDES NEW TIRES, ROLLERS, BRAKING / TURN SIGNAL LIGHTING KIT*** TRAILER LICENSE IS CURRENT AND PAID IN FULL THROUGH DECEMBER 2015 *** NEW BATTERY*** REBUILT MOTOR 55 HP JOHNSON W/ ELECTRONIC HYDRAULIC LIFT - LESS THAN 100 HOURS*** BUILT IN 10 GALLON FUEL TANK AND EMERGENCY RESERVE 6 GALLON FUEL TANK*** 2 LIFE PRESERVERS*** ANCHOR*** OTHER ACCESSORIES

1958 Speedliner 16

1958 Speedliner 16

$17,500

Hanford, California

Year 1958

Make Speedliner

Model 16

Category Ski/Wakeboard Boats

Length 16

Posted 7 Days Ago

This Speedliner is in incredible condition; it is under a custom boat cover, a generic boat cover and inside a building. It's been stored like this its entire life. Original owner is an auto mechanic and has kept it in excellent condition. This boat belongs in a museum. Stock #319337 Excellent condition, low hours, always garage kept, it belongs in a museum! This is the most incredibly well cared for boat I have ever taken in. The seller is 2nd owner, purchased from the local Speedliner dealer as their showroom boat. He purchased the boat in 1971. He has used it very little over the years but has been meticulous in its care. All mahogany construction and a fiberglass shell was added for the lower hull portion that eliminates any wood rot. The interior is incredible, not a rip or tear and in perfect condition. As blue as it was the day it was delivered, no sun fading at all. The Mercury outboard was the beginning of Mercury Racing. This was their race motor back then with 6 cylinders and 100 HP. The trailer came with the boat, all of this is original. The owner is about as honest and pleasant as they come, I could not work with a nicer gentlemen. This boat and trailer I would categorize as a "barn find," it's really incredible to see. Reason for selling is not using anymore.