Mercury Mariner 15 Hp Boats for sale
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15’ OPEN HULL ALUMINUM BOAT w TRAILER - 40” BOTTOM & 30 HP MARINER OUTBOARD
$3,500
Boyce, Louisiana
15ft. Aluminum Boat, 40in. Bottom with Open Hull, Large Casting Deck and Wood Flooring. 30 hp. Mariner outboard with SST prop Stick steer troll motor.Everything works great! Galvanized dilly trailer with new rims, tires and spare.Boat located near Alexandria, LAPlease contact me to arrange seeing the boat. Happy to show it to you... PAYMENT Please try to be prompt with your payment. If payment is not received within 72 hours after bidding has ended, the item will unfortunately have to be relisted. If you can not pay within that time frame, simply drop me a message and we can work something out. SHIPPING Pickup Only. MONEY BACK GUARANTEE I have worked hard to keep a perfect feedback rating and intend to keep it that way. If you are unhappy or dissatisfied for any reason whatsoever, just contact me. I will gladly refund your money or work out whatever arrangement you deem fair. As always, I will leave you happy and satisfied. FEEDBACK I will leave positive feedback upon payment received.
Mercury/Mariner Service Manuals
$35
Monroe, North Carolina
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
Many Mercury Service Manuals available for outboards , inboards, jet drives etc. Many manuals call or email to see if we have the one you are looking for. buy one or more most are 35.00 some higher, some lower. Call 518-528-1885 example: Mercury Service Manual # 15 GM V-8 # 90-816463 BOX 1 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 115/135/150/175 OPTIMAX DIRECT FUEL INJECTION 90-859494R1 BOX 1 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCRUISER # 15 GM V-8 90-816463 392 BOX 1 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCRUISER # 23 v-8 454CID(7.4L) 502CID(8.2L) 90-861326-1 BOX 1 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCRUISER # 9 GM V-8 90-144991-1 BOX 1 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCRUISER # 11 BRAVO STERN DRIVES 17431--4 398 BOX 1 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MARINE ENGINES GM 4 CYL 90-816462 395 BOX 1 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCRUISER #14 STERNDRIVE UNITS 90-818177-3 APRIL 2001 BOX 1 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCRUISER #10 GM 4 CYL ENGINES 90-14693-1 BOX 1 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCRUISER #20 STERNDRIVES BLACKHAWK 90-823228 BOX 1 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCRUISER # 18 GM V-6 262CID(4.3L) 90-823226--1 996 BOX 1 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCRUISER #16 GM V-8 454CID(7.4L)502CID(8.2L) 90-823224--2 796 BOX 2 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SERVICE MANUAL SPORT JET 90 90-824724--1 693 BOX 2 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCURY/MARINER 8/9.9(4 STROKE)(232CC) 1995-1998 90-827857R1 BOX 2 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCURY/MARINER 135-150-175-200 1989 MODELS 135-150-150XR4- 150 MAGNUM II 175, 175 90-814098--1 190 BOX 2 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 FOURSTROKE 90-857046R1 BOX 2 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 25/30, 25 JET FOURSTROKE ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 90-899182R01 BOX 2 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 200/225 OPTIMAX DIRECT FUEL INJECTION 90-859769R03 BOX 2 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 1998 AND 1999 135, 150 OPTIMAX DIRECT FUEL INJECTION 90-855347R1 BOX 2 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75/90/115 OPTIMAX DIRECT FUEL INJECTION 90-889785R01 BOX 2 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 50/60 FOURSTROKE 90-858896 BOX 2 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 115 FOURSTROK ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 90-881980 BOX 2 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SUPPLEMENT MODELS WITH EMISSION CONTROL 90-879288023 BOX 2 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SMARTCRAFT DTS 90-895072 box 2 13 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 6,7,8,9 90-863161040 box 2 14 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 9.9/15 (4 stroke) 90-856159R1 box 2 15 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL mercruiser # 32 4.3L 90-864261 box 2 16 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 115 fourstroke efi 90-881980R03 Box 3 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 9.9/ 15 Fourstroke 90-856159R02 Box 3 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 40/50/60 4cyl 4 stroke 90-88306065R01 Box 3 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 25 Bigfoot 90-854785R1 Box 3 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SmartCraft DTS DTS 90-889288 Box 3 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 200 Optimax Jet drive 90-881986 Box 3 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 4/5/6 fourstroke 90-857138R1 Box 3 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 25/30 Fourstroke EFI 90-899182 Box 3 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL Merc/Mariner 40 (4cyl) 90-814676R1 Box 3 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL # 30 496 CID 8.1L sect 4,5 90-863161030 Box 3 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 496 CID sections 2 & 3 90-863161020 Box 3 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 135/150/175 Verado 4 Stroke lookup Box 3 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 200/225/250/275/300 Verado lookup Box 4 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #26 GM 4 CYL 90-861329-1 Box 4 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SMARTCRAFT DTS 90-895072 Box 4 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SMARTCRAFT DTS 90-889288 Box 4 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #39 BRAVO STERNDRIVES 90-865612060 Box 4 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 1A, 1B, 1C 90-863161010 Box 4 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL # 30 4 AND 5 90-863161030 Box 4 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 6,7,8, AND 9 90-863161040 Box 4 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 2 & 3 90-863161020 Box 4 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #36 ECM555 DIAGNOSTICS 90-864573001 Box 4 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SN PM000000 AND ABOVE 90-863757-1 Box 4 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 40/50/60 4 CYL FOURSTROKE EFI 90-883065R01 Box 4 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 2.5/3/5 FOURSTROKE 90-899925 Box 4 13 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MODELS V250 V275 90-813779 Box 4 14 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRIC THRUSTER T33 REE RX33 90-816427 Box 4 15 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 3.5, 3.7 90-43183 Box 4 16 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 2.2, 2.5, 3.0, 3.3 90-44477--1 Box 4 17 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MODELS 18, 25 90-92235--1 Box 4 18 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 135/150/175/200/225 90-824052R2 BOX 5 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 2.5/3/5 FOURSTROKE 90-899925 BOX 5 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #8 4 CYLINDER 90-44553 BOX 5 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERC SERV MAN 90-86137 BOX 5 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 9.9/15 FOURSTROKE BIGFOOT 90-856159R02 BOX 5 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #1 STERNDRIVE UNITS 90-68648 BOX 5 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #2 ENGINES AND DRIVES 90-71707 BOX 5 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #3 4, L6 AND V8 90-95693 BOX 5 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 50/60 FOURSTROKE 90-858896 BOX 5 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 40/45/50/50 BIGFOOT 4 STROKE 90-828631R3 BOX 5 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL PRECISION PARTS BOX 5 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 4 STROKE 90-857046R1 BOX 5 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 0T409000 90-883064R02 BOX 5 13 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #7 GM V-6 CYLINDER 90-12410 BOX 6 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75/90/115, 80/100/115 90-899185 BOX 6 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #31 5.0L/5.7L/6.2L MPI 90-864260001 BOX 6 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 4/5/6 FOURSTROKES 90-857138R1 BOX 6 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 115 FOURSTROKE EFI 90-881980R2 BOX 6 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 225 FOURSTROKE EFI 90-888465 BOX 6 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL COLORED DIAGRAMS BIG BOOK 90-899755001 BOX 6 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL ACCESSORY GUIDE ACCESSORY GUIDE BOX 7 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 4/5/012CC SAILPOWER 90-17308R02 BOX 7 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE SPECS AND MAINT 90-44477-1 BOX 7 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 200/225 OPTIMAX 90-859769R03 BOX 7 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 200/225/250 3.0L 90-884294R01 BOX 7 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75/90/115 OPTIMAX 90-889785 BOX 7 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75 MARATHON, 75 SEAPRO ETC 90-830234R04 BOX 7 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 40JET 45 JET 50-55-60 90-817643R1 BOX 7 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 2 CYLINDER 90-826148R03 BOX 7 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30 JET/ 40 (4 CYL) 90-814676R1 BOX 7 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 JET, 40-50-55-60 90-852572R02 BOX 7 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 20 JET 25HP 90-826883R03 BOX 7 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 15/20 FOURSTROKES 90-899987 BOX 7 13 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 6, 8, 9.9, 10, 15 90-827242R02 BOX 8 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 250 OPTIMAX JET DRIVE 90-888438 BOX 8 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 225 PROSPORT 90-841916R01 BOX 8 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 2 CYLINDER 90-826148R03 BOX 8 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 JET 40, 50,55, 40 90-852572R02 BOX 8 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 2 CYLINDER 90-826148R2 BOX 8 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 35, 40 2 CYLINDER 90-42794--1 BOX 8 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 4 STROKE EFI 90-883064R02 BOX 8 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 4/5/102CC SAILPOWER 90-17308R02 BOX 8 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #31 5.0L, 5.7L, 6.2 MPI 90-864260 BOX 8 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 200/225/OPTIMAX 90-855348R02 BOX 8 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 200/225/250/3.0L WORK EFI 90-884294R01 BOX 8 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 25 BIG FOOT 4 STROKE 90-854785R2 BOX 8 13 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 135/150/175/200 90-816249--1 BOX 8 14 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 210/240HP M 2 JET DRIVE 90-877837 BOX 9 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 135/150/175/200 EFI 90-878079R01 BOX 9 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75/90/115 OPTIMAX 90-889785R01 BOX 9 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 225/250 EFI 3.0 LITRE 90-822900R3 BOX 9 BOX 9 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SMARTCRAFT DTS 14 90-897790 BOX 9 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL TURN KEY START TKS CARB SUPP 90-866202 BOX 9 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #36 555 DIAGNOSTICS 90-864573001 BOX 9 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL GEN III COOL FUEL SUPPLEMENT 30 AND 31 90-865376 BOX 9 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #37 v-8 DRY JOINT 90-864260020 BOX 9 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #31 5.0L , 5.7L, 6.2L MPI 90-864260001 BOX 9 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #28 BRAVO STERNDRIVE UNITS 90-863160--1 BOX 9 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #24 GM V-8 305 CID 5.0L 350 90-861327-1 BOX 10 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 4/5/6 FOURSTROKE 90-857138R02 BOX 10 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL V6 MODELS 150/175/200 90-86133--3 BOX 10 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 18/ 18xd 20/25/ 25xd 90-43509--3 BOX 10 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 6, 8, 9.9, 15 210 CC SAILPOWER 90-13449--1 BOX 10 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 90-824052R3 BOX 10 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 90-855348R1 BOX 10 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 90-857046 BOX 10 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 150/175/200/EFI 90-883728 BOX 10 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 225/225 EFI 90-822900R3 BOX 10 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MODEL 120 XR2 90-858804 BOX 10 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL V 300 V- 3.4L 90-43508 BOX 10 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRIC OUTBOARDS 90-1677A1 BOX 10 13 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SAILPOWER 90-86136--1 BOX 10 14 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 6,8, 9.9, 10, 15 90-827242R1 BOX 10 15 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 4, 5 102CC 90-17308--1 BOX 10 16 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 40/50/55/60 90-852572R1 BOX 10 17 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 135/150/175/200HP 90-878079R01 BOX 10 18 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 40/45/50/50 BIGFOOT 90-828631R3 BOX 10 19 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MODELS V135 THRU V 225 90-97658--3 BOX 11 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL HARDBOOK WIRING DIAGRAMS COLOR 40/50/60 EFI FOUR STROKES, 90-879187001,90-897347001,90-897347001,90-877860001, 90-897347001, PLUS MORE BOX 11 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75/90/115/125 90-10180050 BOX 11 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 60 90-10122050 BOX 11 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75/90/115/ EFI 4 STROKES 90-10215050 BOX 11 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #39 3a, b DRIVE SHAFT BRAVO STERN 90-865612020 BOX 11 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 496 CID 8.1L 90-863161010 BOX 11 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #41 SUPPLEMENT TO 25, 26 AND 31 90-866202 BOX 11 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SMARTCRAFT DTS 90-895372 BOX 11 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #5 STERNDRIVES TR AND TRS 90-12935 BOX 11 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #24 SUPPLEMENT 90-861327000 BOX 11 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #39 BRAVO STERNDRIVES 90-865612030 BOX 11 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #39 5 POWER TRIM 6 POWER ASSIST 90-865612050 BOX 11 13 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #39 4 TRANSOM ASSEMBLY 90-865612040 BOX 11 14 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #39 1 AND 2 BRAVO STERN 90-865612020 BOX 11 15 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #40 SUPPLEMENT 30 AND 31 90-865376 BOX 11 16 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SPECIAL TOOLS 90-806737003 BOX 11 17 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SPECIAL TOOLS 90-806737--2 BOX 11 18 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SPECIAL TOOLS 90-806737--2 BOX 11 19 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SPECIAL TOOLS 90-864212 BOX 11 20 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 90-866948 BOX 11 21 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 90-864573001 BOX 11 22 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 90-865612020 BOX 11 23 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 90-865612010 BOX 11 24 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 90-864573 BOX 12 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SMARTCRAFT 90-897790 BOX 12 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL SPORT JET 90/120/95x r120xr 90-831996R1 BOX 12 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 175XR2 90-852396R1 BOX 12 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #39 DRIVE SHAFT EXTENSION 90-865612060 BOX 12 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 200/225 DFI, DTS 90-859769R2 BOX 12 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL COLORED WIRING DIAGRAMS 90-888438 BOX 12 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 FOURSTROKE EFI 90-883064R01 BOX 12 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 225/250/ 3.0L/ WORK EFI 90-884294 BOX 12 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 90-892248R01 BOX 12 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 90-892248 BOX 12 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 496 CID 6,7,8,9 90-863161040 BOX 12 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 4,5 90-863161030 BOX 12 13 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 2 AND 3 90-863161020 BOX 12 14 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #30 1A, 1B, 1C 90-863161010 BOX 12 15 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCURY PRODUCT GUIDE BOX 12 16 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL STERNDRIVES 90-866948001 BOX 12 17 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #41 SUPPLEMENT TO 25, 26 AND 31 90-866202 BOX 12 18 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #40 SUPPLEMENT 30 AND 31 90-865376 BOX 12 19 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #37 SUPPLEMENT 90-864260020 BOX 12 20 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #33 PCM 555 DIAGNOSTICS 90-863757002 BOX 12 21 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #33 PCM 555 DIAGNOSTICS 90-863757--1 BOX 12 22 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #39 BRAVO STERNDRIVES 90-865612031 BOX 12 23 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #28 SUPPLEMENT BRAVO 90-863160030 BOX 13 1 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 6/8/9.9/10/15 90-827242R02 BOX 13 2 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 20 JET/20/25HP 90-826883R03 BOX 13 3 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75/90/115 OPTIMAX 90-889785 BOX 13 4 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 40 JET 45 JET 50 JET 55 60 MARATHON 90-817643R1 BOX 13 5 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MODELS W/EMISSION CONTROLS 90-879288023 BOX 13 6 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #27 D 7.3L DTRONIC 90-861784-1 BOX 13 7 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL #39 BRAVO STERNDRIVES 90-865612070 BOX 13 8 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75/90 FOURSTROKES 90-858895R02 BOX 13 9 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 30/40 FOURSTROKE EFI 90-883064 BOX 13 10 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 75/75 MARATHON/ SEA PRO 90-830234R04 BOX 13 11 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 240 EFI JET DRIVE 90-884822 BOX 13 12 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 210/240 M2 JET DRIVE 90-877837R01 BOX 13 13 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL 200/225 OPTIMAX 90-859769R1 BOX 13 14 MERCURY SERVICE MANUAL MERCURY RACING 90-842009
1995 ROBALO 2120 CENTER CONSOLE 225 HP MERCURY T-TOP We Ship/Export Worldwide
$8,900
Pompano Beach, Florida
Category Center Consoles
Length 21.0
Posted Over 1 Month
1995 Robalo 2120 CC eBAY 1995 ROBALO 2120 CC Engine: Mercury 225 Offshore LOA 21’ Beam 7’11” Draft min 17” Draft max 34” Approx weight 2,750 pounds Fuel tank 80 gals Dead rise aft 22° Price: MAKE OFFER 1995 ROBALO 2120 CENTER CONSOLE – 225 MERCURY One of the biggest 21 Center Consoles out there. Extremely smooth-riding deep-V hull, easy to clean, quality and durability all around. Cruises comfortable around 30 MPH and tops out well over 45 MPH at WOT. Robalo builds solid and well laid-out fishing boats and our 2120 Center Console is no exception. Equipment-wise, she has it all, GPS, VHF, stereo, T-top, removable cooler, rod holders and livewells throughout. 3.0L 225 Mercury Offshore engine runs strong with good compression. Recently serviced ready for the ocean. NO TRAILER INCLUDED IN THE AUCTION VIDEO View on YouTube Many experienced anglers vote the Robalo 2120 Center Console as the ideal size for their needs – less power needed, easy to tow, and all the fishing features and options required. The 2120 has the famous Robalo smooth-as-silk ride to tame the chop, and performance to spare with her Mercury Mariner power. The Robalo 2120 comes standard with many features considered options by others, such as a compass, the 94-quart removable cooler and top-quality stainless bright work. GALLERY SHIP TO AUSTRALIA DELIVERY TO CANADA SHIP TO MIDDLE-EAST SHIP TO EUROPE Sydney Brisbane Melbourne Fremantle Competitive Trucking Prices Please call us for a Quote. Alexandria, Egypt Port Said, Egypt Jebel Ali, UAE Abu Dhabi, UAE Kuwait City, Kuwait Salalah, Oman Dammam, Saudi Arabia Jeddah, Saudi Arabia Beirut, Lebanon Aqaba, Jordan Mina Salman, Bahrain Doha, Qatar Bremerhaven, Germany Amsterdam, Netherlands Gothenburg, Sweden Southampton, UK Drammen, Norway Kotka, Finland St. Petersburg, Russia Klaipeda, Lithuania Paldiski, Estonia Valencia, Spain Le Havre, France Athens, Greece Izmir, Turkey Istanbul, Turkey Delivery to Asia, South America, and Central America, and other destinations is also available. We are licensed and bonded by the Federal Maritime Commission as an NVOCC – meaning that we have in-house control of shipping with exclusive contracts which means no middlemen – i.e. very competitive shipping prices. We offer competitive rates on nationwide delivery to your door. Please contact us for an immediate quote. EUROPEAN CUSTOMERS. PLEASE CONTACT US FOR DETAILS ABOUT CE-CERTIFICATION TERMS & CONDITIONS More pictures and video of this particular boat is available at http://www.boatexport.com/ Deposit of $1,000 is required within 2 days from end of auction. If you are planning to finance the boat, you MUST pre- qualify before bidding. Boat sold as is where is and must be paid in full and funds available in our accounts within 7 days from end of auction. For Florida residents we collect sales tax and tag/title/registration fee of $350. Items are listed locally and internationally and we reserve the right to end listings early – with or without bids. All boats are sold as is where is. Inspect BEFORE bidding. All boats located in Pompano Beach, FL 33060. We ship worldwide – please contact for freight quote. Payment methods: $1,000 deposit within 2 days of closing of auction. Balance should be paid within 7 days and must clear our accounts prior to boat leaving our store. Shipping: Nationwide delivery is available as well as shipping worldwide. Please contact us for quotes on shipping. Contact: Boats International, Inc. 771 W Atlantic Blvd. Pompano Beach, FL 33060 Phone: +1.954.788.2900 or email Welcome to Boats International Group! Headquartered in Pompano Beach Florida, Boats International Group is the operating enterprise behind the following brand names: BOATS INTERNATIONAL – BOATS.DE (Boats International, Inc.) – AAA-rated boat dealership located in the heart of the Fort Lauderdale metropolitan area – the undisputed Yachting Capital of the World. With close to an acre of prime real-estate showroom just off South Florida’s main artery I-95 and with easy access to the Intra-Coastal Waterway, the boat dealership displays a wide variety of brand name powerboats such as Sea Ray, Regal, Chaparral, and Monterey. Boats International carries predominantly new, pre-owned, and trade-in powerboats and cabin cruisers in inventory. The company recently doubled its showroom capacity which paved way for the introduction of the in-house brokerage & consignment division – all under one roof. Larger vessels and yachts are docked with direct Intracoastal access for easy showings and sea-trials. BOATEXPORT.COM (boatexport.com, inc.) – U.S. premiere provider of boat & yacht export solutions for domestic and international buyers & sellers. Boatexport.com is a full-service export company that is licensed by the Federal Maritime Commission (FMC) as a Non-Vessel Operating Common Carrier (NVOCC). Boatexport.com has exclusive shipping contracts with some of the world’s largest shipping lines and offers competitive rates on RORO-shipping of boats & yachts worldwide. BOATLOGISTIC.COM (Boat Logistic, Inc.) – Domestic & Continental transport facilitator that provides aggressive rates on inland road transports of boats & yachts. Boat Logistics offers competitive pricing on pre-export and pre-transport preparation of boats & yachts including shrink-wrapping service, shipping cradle construction, CE-certification (through Germanischer Lloyd and CEproof), as well as fumigation of vessels/cradles and de-gassing of refrigerants to comply with international import regulations. Importing a Boat to Australia We have some of the best rates for RORO-shipping to Australia in the U.S. and we serve the ports of Brisbane, Adelaide, Port Kembla, Fremantle, and Melbourne. Whether you are a repeat customer or a first-time buyer, here’s a few tips and reminders about buying, shipping, and importing boats and yachts to Australia from the U.S. Finding the right boat. Buying a boat from another country often means dealing with people that you never met or dealt with in the past. There’s tons of free classified ads and Craig’s list-type re-advertisers on the internet with deals just too good to be true. If it sounds too good, then, you’d guessed it, it probably is a scam. Do your research. Be realistic. Partner up with a Pro (like us). We suggest you deal with us. Each week we get shipping, export, and certification inquiries from some of the country’s well respected marine dealers. We work in close cooperation with country-wide brand name retailers such as Marinemax and with the brand stores of Regal, Chaparral, Monterey, Bayliner, Larson – just to mention a few. We are a fully licensed Non Vessel Operating Common Carrier by the Federal Maritime Commission and as such we operate our own in-house shipping company. We have exclusive contracts with some of the largest steamship companies in the world. As one of the rather few NVOCC’s we have the authority to buy and resell space on ocean-going cargo ships and issue our own bills of lading. What does this mean for you? As an individual? Well, by contacting us directly you are likely to save considerable time and money by dealing directly with the contract holder (as opposed to a string of middlemen). Buying a boat directly from us or through our brokerage division Boats International, Inc. is our own in-house discount boat dealership. We buy bulk trade-in’s from the big retailers but we also buy from banks and individuals as well. For the past 20+ years our focus have been to absorb distressed inventory and floor-plan boats from cash-strapped dealers and resell these locally and overseas. As we now are completing our store expansion project (September, 2011) we will be able to take on even more inventory then in the past and also have space over to showcase brokerage and consignment boats. Most of our international buyers rely on our reputation and expertise as a key player on the U.S. domestic and international boat market and they seek our help to source the boat(s) that they seek. If we do not have what they seek in stock we’ll be sure to find it through our network of dealers and banks for the right money. Whether your buying a stock boat from us or one from another dealer we are well equipped to assist you with every step from inspection to final delivery of your boat or yacht to Australia. For example we can help you or your client with: Finding a Boat or Yacht that meets (or exceeds) your requirements in terms of condition, equipment, and of course price Negotiate the Deal (including but not limited to title searches, accident reports, previous owner status, etc) Survey & Physical Inspection (we have a longstanding partnership with a number of accredited marine surveyors, mechanics, and experts in most regions of the country) Closing the Deal – we often act as intermediary for international buyers as most of our overseas clients prefer only to work with one turn-key partner Pre-shipping Logistics – once the deal is done and the boat paid for we assist in coordinating haul-outs, marina loadings, boat ramp pickups and inland U.S. land transport/trucking through our in-house logistics company Boatlogistic.com, Inc. Pre-Export Preparation – Sanitation, Fumigation, De-gassing of refrigerants. Australia has (as you probably know already) very specific and strict import restrictions for boats and vessels. The governing body is the Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service (AQIS) which is part of the Australian Government’s Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry. Depending on the geographical location of the boat and the required preparation of the vessel we can either prepare the boat for export to Australia while underway, or we can have it completed at our marina in Pompano Beach, Florida. Australian Shipping Services Team – our Australian Shipping Services Team assist with Sanitize boats & yachts prior to port delivery – AQIS will stop all boats that are dirty and soiled to check for insect/parasite infestations Fumigation of boats and cradles according to AQIS-standard (Methyl Bromide 3.0 lbs / 1,000 cubic feet / 24 hrs) De-gassing of Air-conditioning Systems (AC) Refrigeration HVAC HFC HCFC Providing HVAC Customs Certification With our certificates our customer are NOT REQUIRED to obtain the otherwise very expensive Australian import licenses. Trailer Import Permit Assistance The Australian Government’s Department of Infrastructure and Transport requires that all imported boat trailers have an Import Approval. You can read more about the approval at the Department’s website or you can download the .pdf-application “Import a Small Road Trailer” here. Import Duties and Goods and Services Tax (GST) If you’re buying a US-made boat, according to the United States-Australia Free Trade Agreement, you aren’t required to pay the 5% duty (as we’ll supply the required waiver forms). You must, however pay 10% GST on all costs associated with the purchase of the the boat, ocean freight, duty, wharf charges, customs broker fees, and destination port fees.. ISPM-15 – No Worries Mate – We Fumigate All Wooden Cradles & Provide Proof of Fumigation International Standards For Phytosanitary Measures No. 15 (ISPM 15) is an International Phytosanitary Measure developed by the International Plant Protection Convention (IPPC) that directly addresses the need to treat wood materials of a thickness greater than 6mm, used to ship products between countries. Its main purpose is to prevent the international transport and spread of disease and insects that could negatively affect plants or ecosystems. ISPM 15 affects all wood packaging material (pallets, crates, dunnages, etc.) requiring that they be debarked and then heat treated or fumigated with methyl bromide and stamped or branded,[1] with a mark of compliance. This mark of compliance is colloquially known as the “wheat stamp”. Products exempt from the ISPM 15 are made from alternative material, like paper, plastic or wood panel products (i.e. OSB, hardboard, and plywood). Customs Broker Fees & Destination Charges in Australia There’s tons of websites out there claiming to be the know-it-all for import questions concerning boats & yachts to Australia. Fortunately, we are not one of them. While we can recommend quite a few competent companies in Australia it is ultimately up to you to pick a customs partner in your home port. As is true for all facets of our business we believe that there are no shortcuts to sustained success in business (or life for that matter). That said we recommend that you seek the advice of an Australian Customs Broker who is licensed by the “Customs Brokers and Forwarders Council of Australia Inc” – CBFCA-Australia Website to inquire about recent legal and import changes pertaining to your planned import.
1983 Arima Sea Explorer
$4,950
Portland, Oregon
Category Powerboats
Length 15'
Posted Over 1 Month
1983 Arima Sea Explorer 1983 Arima Sea Explorer 15’. Powered by a 1983 50 HP Mercury Classic with whale tail and CMC power tilt and trim. Trolling motor is 7.5 HP Honda with remote control at helm and remote steering. Complete top with side curtains and backdrop, all in good condition. 1 year old dual batteries with Perko battery switch and Pro Mariner dual battery charger. Cuda GPS/depth/fish finder. Uniden VHF Mariner radio and antenna. New tires including spare. Ready to fish! The trailer is a 1977 Caulkins with rollers that is a little rusty yet mechanically sound, but it doesn’t come with a title only bill of sale. Out of the state of Oregon buyers do your own research to see if a title is attainable with a bill of sale and readable serial numbers. Please don’t ask if it has a trailer title.
1990 Sea Ray 180 Bowrider in VERY GOOD condition MUST SELL ASAP
$6,199
Anderson, Indiana
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
PRICED REDUCED FOR FAST SALE!!!! For Sale is a turn key ready, 1990 Sea Ray Bow-rider, with matching Ez-Load trailer. Boat is 18.6 ft. Boat and trailer have clean titles, in hand. This boat is in great condition. Boat was winterized and is ready for the water, turn key and go. The interior was reupholstered 3 seasons ago, and is still in great shape. The engine is a 100 hp Mariner,which is made by Mercury, and has had regular routine maintenance completed as required. Boat max speed is about 42 mph. Depending on water, # of people on board, and weather conditions, boat cruses an avg of 38mph. Last summer a new radio/mp3 docking kit was installed, along with 2 high powered JL Audio speakers which sound great. A new am/fm antenna (hidden) was also installed. Boat has been kept in garage for at least the last 6 years when not in the water. Photos were taken late summer of last year before boat was winterized and put in storage. Also just put on a new Solas Stainless 19pitch prop and performs amazing. This was put on beginning of May, 2015. Have used 6 times already this year. Comes with unlimited ramp use for the 2015 season at Ben Watts Marina($350.00) in FoxLake, IL, and the 2015 Fox Waterway sticker(80.00). Come take a look!!! Great family boat!!! Boat is being sold with all the bells and whistles needed for safe and fun boating. See Below. Below is a list of all accessories included in this sale; *2 person tube (bought this summer and used once) *5 Life jackets *Ski/Tube Rope *2 Anchors *2 Anchor Lines *2 Docking Ropes *2 Tie Down Straps *All Season trailer-able cover *Misc. Ropes *2 Spare Batteries *New Flare kit *New Fire extinguisher *Emergency life saver *Extendable pole with hook *Air Pump for tubes, ect. for use in the marine Cigarette lighter *Cleaning Supplies *Misc. odd and ends Due to financial reasons we need to sell the boat as soon as possible. New radio and speakers value is $750.00 All above named accessories were bought this spring and summer for $1900.00 New Propeller was $385.00. Just re-checked the boats value on 7/16/15, via nada.com, and Nada values this boat in good condition at a suggested retail price of $11,595, and an Average Retail Value of $6920.00, a low retail price of $6055.00. Nada printout can be emailed to serious buyers by request. ASKING $6199.00 or best reasonable offer. PLEASE CALL KEVIN AT 630 474 5296.
2002 NORDIC Heat
$48,500
Veradale, Washington
Year 2002
Make -
Model -
Category High Performance Boats
Length 28'
Posted Over 1 Month
2002 Nordic Heat,2002 Nordic Heat. This Nordic heat has everything you could ask for in a power boat. The engine was rebuilt this year and has 4 hours on it, as well as a new Bravo One XR drive. Nothing was overlooked in the engine build and is ready for big power. Currently running a 8.1L Mercruiser, bored and stroked to 540ci. The engine components are as follows:4.5inch Stroke Forged Crankshaft (Callies)BigPower Aluminum Cylinder Heads (Raylar engineering)BP-206 Max Effort High-Lift Camshaft (Raylar engineering)CoolGap EFI Intake Manifold (Raylar engineering)Billet Throttle Body (Raylar engineering)1.7 Ratio SS Roller Rockers & AFN nuts (Raylar engineering)BigPower Forged Flycut Pistons, Rings & Wristpins (Raylar engineering)BigPower Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods (Raylar engineering)ARP Re-torqueable High Strength Head Bolt Kit (Raylar engineering)Cometic MLS Head Gasket Set (Raylar engineering)Boat runs 70+ MPH and boasts 625HP and 660ft/lbs torque.This motor is built for reliability and ready to run a supercharger if desired. The drive is a new Bravo one XR, and has 4 hours on it as well. This boat has a huge stereo that has been custom installed by one of the top installers in the nation. Specifications as follows:COCKPIT:2-JL Audio HD 1200x1 amps2-JL Audio HD 600x4 amps4-Sets JL Audio M770 component speakers4-JL Audio 10w6'sClarion head unitCustom subwoofer enclosureAll speakers have blue LED light as well as a blue LED interior and lit cup holders. A swim platform remote is also included.CABIN:Clarion head unit2-sets JL M770 dual coaxial speakersLG 27" LED TVSony Blu-Ray player3500w power inverter with USB ports and protectionBoat is also equipped with a Pro-Mariner charging system that charges and monitors each battery. 2 Stinger SP2250-(6000w 5000amp) batteries are dedicated to the stereo so you can play all day without fear of not being able to start. The boat also contains 2 Optima Blue tops for the drive motor. A Lowrance Elite 4-DSi GPS and chart plotter is also installed. Twin Ram Imco hydraulic steering, Bennet dual ram hydraulic trim tabs and indicator, and 4 blade stainless 26P mercury racing labbed prop. Boat comes with a 2002 tri-axle road runner trailer with surge brakes and is no problem to tow with a 1/2 ton pickup truck.All maintenance has been documented and recorded, and I have receipts for over 18k in stereo, 15k in motor, and 10k for the drive. This is definitely a one of a kind boat ready for summer and years to come. Hull has 566 hours, but motor and drive have only 4. $60000, 8018244683
2000 Yar-Craft 1895 D/C
$15,500
Darien, Illinois
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
2000 Yar-Craft 1895 D/C, BARN FIND ! 1895 Storm D/C - last in the water 2001 (still has a 2001 license plate) 225 HP Mercury w/chrome prop -- local boat shop went completely through the engine and verified that it has 35 hours on it. 8 HP Mariner trolling motor with electric lift 2 electric down riggers Electric trolling motors GPS fish finders Ship/shore radio Bait tanks, transom live well Internal tackle Storage unit Every possible option you can think of includes Tandem trailer, new $39,000 $15,500 630-430-6399
2000 Nitro 901 CDX
$14,000
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
2000 Nitro 901 CDX,This Nitro boat is a great boat for fishing or cruising! the hull is designed to handle rough water with a safe, smooth, and dry ride! it has tons of storage, and it's very well organized. The boat is very clean, and has been kept clean and maintained! The power head was rebuilt 2 years ago, and has less than 10 hours on it! Here are the details; * Nitro 901 CDX - 19 1/2' fiberglass fishing boat. * Mercury 200hp Optimax motor * Motor Guide 36 volt trolling motor (3 props) * Sea Star hydraulic steering * Hot Foot throttle control * custom boat cover * custom tandem axel trailer - with break - away tongue. * Lowrance X-15 GPS unit on dash * Lowrance - Elite 4X Color on bow * Zercom Classic CID -40 in dash * Dual Pro - Tri Pro 3 bank charger ( 15 amp each ) * Pro Mariner - Promite 5 amp charger * 5 good batteries * manual jack plate * 3 Stainless steel props * Swim ladder * good tires w/spare * 1 pedestal butt seat * 1 high back pedestal seat Please contact me if you are interested! Thanks $14000.00, 6056603968
2005 Luhrs (4 Strokes! Rare!)
$89,900
Solomons, Maryland
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
2005 Luhrs (4 Strokes! Rare!) FOR QUESTIONS CONTACT: RICH (703) 409-1288 or Sea Trials will not be available until March, unless the potential buyer would like to pay for re-winterization of the vessel upon completion of sea trial. This is a 2005 Luhrs 29 OB Open powered by twin Mercury 275HP Verado Four Strokes with less than 500 hours! This boat was custom made for Charlie Spires who was the VP of Luhrs as a retirement gift! DESCRIPTION She burns 1.1 MPG. Unbelievable low fuel burn while trolling. A Kohler 4KW diesel generator (150 hours) offers power to keep the AC or Heat on all the time as well as power the HD television and galley appliances. In the galley you will find a Kenyon stove, Microwave, Coffee Maker, Refrigerator. Over $20k in newly installed electronics include Raymarine E120 Wide Chartplotter includes advance cartography, High Definition sounder, High Definition Radar. Heavy duty ST6001 Autopilot with E12091 Course Master lets you fish with your friends. SmartCraft guages and VHF radio rounds out the impressive electronics. EQUIPMENT -Danforth 15 lb. Anchor with Lewmar Windless -Rotatable Spotlite -Sylvania 18 HD TV with Cable Connection -Marine-air 10,000 BTU Air Conditioning Unit -Sea Fire 1301 Halon System - Fire Suppression -Isolation Transformer - 3.6KVA -Taco Grandslam Outriggers -Pro Mariner Pro Tech 4 Battery Charger -Fighting Table with Articulating Rod Holders -Hot Water Heater -Ritchie 4in Compass -16 Rod Holders -Swim Platform Latter Extension -Surround sound in Cabin and on Weather Deck -Complete JL Audio Surround Sound System -Raw Water Washdown. DIMENSIONS -LOA: 31 ft 10 in -Beam: 11 ft 6 in -Maximum Draft: 2 ft 0 in -Bridge Clearance: 9 ft 7 in -Dry Weight: 10000 lbs ENGINES -Twin Mercury 275 HP Verado Four Strokes -Year Built: 2005 -Engine/Fuel Type: Gas/Petrol -Engine Hours: 490 TANKAGE: -Fresh Water Tanks: (30 Gallons) -Fuel Tanks: (300 Gallons) -Holding Tanks: (30 Gallons) ACCOMMODATIONS -Number of single berths: 4 -Number of heads: 1 BOAT LOCATION: Solomons, MD (20688) Make: Luhrs Model: (4 Strokes! Rare!) Length: 29 Dealer: Anglers Edge Marine ID: 201740 Ad provided by BoatingBay
Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619
$1
El Cajon, California
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.
