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Older Boat Motor 40hp Boats for sale
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18 Foot 2010 Manitou Pontoon with Older 40hp Evinrude Motor & Boat Hoist
$9,500
Elk Rapids, Michigan
Category Pontoon Boats
Length 18.0
Posted Over 1 Month
18 Foot 2010 Manitou Fishing Pontoon Boat with Older 40hp Evinrude Motor, Mooring Cover, Older Boat Hoist with Electric Lift. Boat is in excellent condition with Live Tank, Four Swivel Chairs and Bench Seat. Motor is in good running condition but needs exterior cleaning. This is a great fishing Boat. Unfortunately there is not a Trailer included. One owner Boat. I purchased it in October of 2010 but did not take delivery until 2011. It was in the water with minimal use in 2011 & 2012. In storage for seasons 2013 & 2014. Put in water in 2015 in order to place on market. Boat is located on Bass Lake in Elk Rapids, Michigan 15 miles North of Traverse City. Buyer's responsibility to pick-up or arrange for delivery by third party.
2000 Suntracker Pontoon, motor, and trailer~!
$6,800
Paragould, Arkansas
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
Up for sale. 2000 Sun tracker Party Barge 18 foot pontoon boat. Let the pics speak for themselves. Bimini top is in great shape. Has fish finder and cd player. Powered by 2000 40hp tracker motor that has tilt and trim. Also comes with customer canvas cover. All carpet and seats are in good used condition. Sits on older single axle bunk style pontoon trailer. Item is being sold as is. No delivery will be available through the seller. Contact us with any more questions. 573-344-6699. Please call before bidding or buying it now to work out final sell details.
2000 Sun tracker Pontoon, motor, and trailer~!
$6,500
Paragould, Arkansas
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
Relisting due to a non show buyer. Please remember to call us first before bidding to work out all the details. Up for sale. 2000 Sun tracker Party Barge 18 foot pontoon boat. Let the pics speak for themselves. Bimini top is in good shape. Has fish finder and cd player. Powered by 2000 40hp tracker motor that has tilt and trim. Also comes with customer canvas cover. All carpet and seats are in good used condition. Sits on older single axle bunk style pontoon trailer. Item is being sold as is. No delivery will be available through the seller. Contact us with any more questions. 573-344-6699. Please call before bidding or buying it now to work out final sell details.
NEW 2015 SeaArk MV 1648 All Welded Aluminum Boat NEW 4 Stroke Suzuki 25 Trailer
$6,990
Chapin, South Carolina
Listing by Auction123.com copyright Auction123, Inc.Doss Marine - 1720 Chapin Rd Chapin, SC 29036 - 803-345-1001NEW 2015 SeaArk MV 1648 All Welded Aluminum Boat NEW 4 Stroke Suzuki 25 New Trailer Click here for an XL view of the above Image PrevNext 1 2 3 4 5 6 About2015 SeaArk MV1648 All Welded Aluminum Boat Has floor Installed Extra seat/storage Box New Suzuki DF25AQHEL Four Stroke New Load Rite Galvanized trailerThis Brand New SeaArk MV1648 is being offered for less considerably less than cost. We special ordered this boat for someone and the deal fell through. They paid a deposit on it so their loss is your gain. It is rigged with a brand new Suzuki 25 four stroke and is on a brand new galvanized trailer. the motor is a 3 cylinder EFI motor with a 3 year warranty a free 3 year warranty. The boat motor and trailer all have full warranties. the boat can be sold with no motor or outfitted with any motor size you choose up to 40hp for an additional cost. If you decrease the motor size the price will decrease. We can ship this package anywhere in the US or the world. Please email me for a shipping quote. A $500 deposit is due thorugh paypal within 24 hours with the balance due within 7 days. DescriptionBasic InformationYear: 2015Make: SeaarkModel: MV 1648Condition: NewType: JonUse: Not SpecifiedEngineEngine Make: SuzukiEngine Model: Df25aqhelPrimary Fuel Type: GasEngine Horsepower: 25Length / BeamLength (Feet): 16TrailerTrailerHull TypeHull Material: Aluminum ContactDoss Marine 1720 Chapin Rd Chapin, South Carolina 29036Ask for:Doss Marineoffice:803-345-1001Email: Email SellerDirectionsTermsDoss Marine 1720 Chapin Rd Chapin, South Carolina 29036 View DirectionsAsk For:Doss Marineoffice:803-345-1001 Email: Email SellerHours of Operation (EST):Mon-Fri08:00am-05:00pmSaturday09:00am-12:00pm Placing a Bid: Your bid constitutes a legally binding contract to purchase this vehicle. Please do not bid if you're not seriously interested or financially able to purchase this vehicle. Please read eBay's User Agreement Doss Marine reserves the right to, Obtain and verify the registered information of all users who bid on this auction. Cancel any and all bids at our discretion, or end the auction early if necessary. Bidders Age: You must be 18 years of age or older to Bid. Special eBay Bid Retraction Rules: Please read eBay's "Retracting a Bid" If you place a bid before the last 12-hour period of the auction: You may retract that bid before that last 12-hour period but only for exceptional circumstances. You will not be allowed to retract that bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction. If you place a bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction: You will be allowed to retract the bid for exceptional circumstances but only if you do so within one hour after placing the bid. Funds & Financing: For help or for any questions please e-mail or phone WIll or or Troy at 803-345-1001 prior to bidding. Buyers Inspection: Doss Marine has done our best to disclose all information known about this vehicle for auction. Doss Marine welcomes a buyers inspection. If you plan to have a buyers inspection, please make sure you inspect the vehicle prior to the auction ending. Inspection fees if any are Buyers responsibility. Representations and Warranties made by seller: This vehicle is being sold "as is". Manufacturers warranties may still apply. Extended warranty may be available, e-mail or phone WIll or at 803-345-1001 for details. No representations or warranties are made by seller, nor are any representations or warranties relied upon by bidders in making bids. Taxes and Registration fees: Out of state buyers are responsible for all state, county, city taxes and fees, as well as title service fees in the state that the vehicle will be registered. South Carolina sales tax will be collected on all vehicles that are picked up at our location. If you choose to have the item shipped no tax will be collected and you will pay tax in your home state. Any tax that is collected in SC you will receive credit for in your home state. You will not be required to pay tax twice. All taxes and fees must be paid in full in order for vehicle to be titled and registered. Title Information: Doss Marine requires a $500 deposit to be paid within 24 hours on all vehicle auctions. The deposit can be paid by paypal, cashiers check or wire transfer. Full payment should be made within 7 days by cashiers check, wire transfer or cash in person. No personal checks will be accepted without prior approval. Doss Marine Charges a $150 Documentation fee for EVERY VEHICLE SOLD. This fee includes Temporary Tag and all necessary paperwork. If the boat is picked up in South Carolina then sales tax of up to $300 on boat and 7% on the trailer will be collected. If we arrange the shipping and the shipping is paid for by Doss Marine, then all sales tax will be paid in your home state. All in state purchases are charged 5% sales tax up to $300 maximum on boat and 7% of the trailer value. ALL TITLES ARE MAILED 7-10 DAYS AFTER PAYMENT IS MADE UNLESS OTHER ARRANGEMENTS ARE MADE! We will do our best to make arrangements to pick you up from the local airport as long as proper notice is given to us. Shipping & Delivery: All shipping charges are buyer's responsibility. Doss Marine will help with shipping arrangements but will not be responsible in any way for claims arising from shipping damage! Licensed Carriers are generally insured for $3,000,000.00. We assume no responsibility for damages incurred after the vehicle leaves our showroom. All shipping arrangements are provided by Doss Marine as a courtesy. We are not affiliated with any carrier. Any claims or other communication regarding shipment of vehicles will be between you and the shipper, not with Doss Marine. The amount of time it takes for delivery is dependent on the carrier, but is generally 7-14 days from the date the vehicle is picked up from our facility until it is delivered to your destination. Verify with the shipper for an Estimate Time of Arrival to be sure. Finalizing your Purchase: Doss Marine will contact the successful high bidder by e-mail after the auction closes. Successful high bidder MUST communicate with WIll or at Doss Marine by e-mail or phone 803-345-1001 within 24 hours of the auction ending to make arrangements to complete their transaction. If we cannot confirm your intention to buy or the sale is not completed within 5 days, we reserve the right to relist this vehicle or sell to any other qualified buyer. In order to secure bid on vehicle, Successful bidder (BUYER) must within 24 hours of bid closing send to Seller a Deposit in the amount of $500 by paypal or bank certified funds. Within 7 days of bid closing, Buyer must send balance of funds by bank wire transfer, cash in person, bank certified funds to Seller. Auction123, Inc. (a service and listing/software company) and the Seller has done his/her best to disclose the equipment/condition of this vehicle/purchase. However, Auction123.com disclaims any warranty as to the accuracy or to the working condition of the vehicle/equipment listed. The purchaser or prospective purchaser should verify with the Seller the accuracy of all the information listed within this ad. Copyright © 2016 Auction123, Inc. - All Rights Reserved. Selling a Vehicle? Create Professional Listings Fast and Easy. Click Here! Image Hosting and Counters by: Auction123.com
2008 Apex A-12 Rigid Hull Inflatable RIB Boat with Honda 40HP and 2014 Trailer
$8,700
Hartford, Connecticut
Up for sale is a very nice 2008 Apex 12 Foot A-12 Model Rigid Hull Inflatable Boat with a Honda 40hp and a 2014 LoadRite Trailer. The boat is in very good condition, runs strong like you would expect from a Honda outboard and very reliable. This is a hard to find boat in this size with a center console and nearly impossible to find with a GPS Color Navigation System (Model 420S with optional local waters SD card) Maximum capacity is 5 people, has full gauge package, power tilt/trim, stainless steel steering wheel, boat lift hooks, navigation lights, battery select switch, internal fuel tank, and a water/fuel separator. The tubes are made of Hypalon, not cheap PVC, no visible patches, seats are in great condition and the trailer is like new and just purchased in 2014. This is a great boat as a tender on a yacht or just a fun boat to zip around in. Very fast and fun to drive. I am not the original owner but did buy it from an older gentleman who used it in fresh water. It was never bottom painted as you can see. I used it one season on the LI Sound and only a few times. I flushed the motor after every use and completely hosed down the boat. Everything works as it should with the exception of the tilt gauge which is intermittent but with the motor right behind you it's not a big deal, you can see everything. The tilt operation works perfect it's just the reading on the gauge. The boat shows about 55 hours but the prior owner replaced the gauge at about 60 hours so it only has about 110 hours of use and you can tell by looking at it. The boat has a homemade T-top with an aluminum frame and a canvas canopy. The prior owner made this to shade himself and his wife, it's actually made well and looks like a store bought top. I never used it but it goes with boat. I also have a custom fit boat cover, an extra set of keys, some misc manuals, and a patch repair kit I am building a home and will not have much time for the boat for the next two seasons so I would rather sell now than hold it for that amount of time. CT does not issue titles on boats or this size trailer so the buyer will receive a transferable registration for the boat and a bill of sale and copy of registration for the trailer. I reserve the right to sell on my own and end auction. If you need to ship you must make all the pre-paid arrangements as I do not ship. I will be happy to assist on my end providing your shipper works with my schedule. The boat is located in Westbrook CT Zip Code 06498 should you need it for a shipping quote. I will be bringing it back to my storage garage next week in Hartford CT. Please ask any questions. Thanks for looking!
2000 Starcraft Starfire 150 SC, 40HP Mercury, Minn Kota Power Drive V2
$5,000
Wayne, Ohio
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
Selling our 2000 Starcraft 150 SC 15.5' aluminum fishing boat. This boat has been extremely well cared for and is stored indoors year round. Motor has been completely winterized at the end of each season. Motor was also professionally serviced/tuned by Griffith's Wawasee Marina late 2013. The full package weight is small enough that my 4-cylinder, manual-transmission Ford Ranger pulled it without any problems, including on the lake ramps. We've really enjoyed owning the boat and there is nothing wrong with it. We're selling purely due to recently becoming obsessed with kayak fishing ;) Details: - 2000 40HP Mercury ELPTO, 2-stroke, oil injected, power trim - Includes 2 props, but they honestly need reconditioned. Will take a bit off of the final price to make up for it. - New 6 gal gas tank and new gas line (late 2013) - Includes the older/extra gas tank (works without issue) - New Minn Kota Power Drive V2, 50lb thrust, electronic foot control (late 2013) - New Hummingbird 561 Dual Beam Sonar fish finder, up-front (late 2013) - Older Eagle Accurate 240 fish/depth finder on-dash - The Eagle includes a working speedometer wheel on the transom -- works great - New tires (late 2013) - New on-trailer spare tire mount (2013) - Includes the previous set of tires, used for spares - New trailer bunks, treated lumber & marine-grade carpet (late 2013) - Re-wired trailer (early 2013) - 2 batteries: newer Interstate Deep Cycle Marine battery up front (dedicated to trolling motor and fish finder), another battery in back - Live well - 2 long storage lockers (rods, gear, etc.) - New locks on both locks (2014) - Safety kit with flares, etc - Full fire extinguisher - Fishing net - New/extra seat, still in box - New nav and anchor lights, both work (2013) - New live well pump (2013) - In-dash compass and battery gauge - Bait bucket - Newer wiring, includes in-line breakers (instead of fuses) - Old oar - 2 anchors - 2 Scotty mounts for rod holders - Built-in cup holders - 3 seat cushion life preservers - Older boat cover and middle post. On paper, I doubt it's "trailerable", but we did use it on a few trips. As long as it's strapped down properly, it worked great.
2000 Starcraft Starfire 150 SC, 40HP Mercury, Minn Kota Power Drive V2
$4,750
Fort Wayne, Indiana
Category -
Length 15.0
Posted Over 1 Month
Selling our 2000 Starcraft 150 SC 15' aluminum fishing boat. This boat has been extremely well cared for and is stored indoors year round. Motor has been completely winterized at the end of each season. Motor was also professionally serviced/tuned by Griffith's Wawasee Marina late 2013. The full package weight is small enough that my 4-cylinder, manual-transmission Ford Ranger pulled it without any problems, including on the lake ramps. We've really enjoyed owning the boat and it's in great shape. We're selling purely due to recently becoming obsessed with kayak fishing ;) Titles in-hand for both the boat and the trailer. Details: 2000 40HP Mercury ELPTO, 2-stroke, oil injected, power trimIncludes 2 props, but they honestly need reconditioned. Will take a bit off of the final price to make up for it.New 6 gal gas tank and new gas line (late 2013)Includes the older/extra gas tank (works without issue)New Minn Kota Power Drive V2, 50lb thrust, electronic foot control (late 2013)New Hummingbird 561 Dual Beam Sonar fish finder, up-front (late 2013)Older Eagle Accurate 240 fish/depth finder on-dashThe Eagle includes a working speedometer wheel on the transom -- works greatNew tires (late 2013)New on-trailer spare tire mount (2013)Includes the previous set of tires, used for sparesNew trailer bunks, treated lumber & marine-grade carpet (late 2013)Re-wired trailer (early 2013) 2 batteries: newer Interstate Deep Cycle Marine battery up front (dedicated to trolling motor and fish finder), another battery in backLive well2 long storage lockers (rods, gear, etc.)New locks on both locks (2014)Safety kit with flares, etcFull fire extinguisherFishing netNew/extra seat, still in boxNew nav and anchor lights, both work (2013)New live well pump (2013)In-dash compass and battery gaugeBait bucketNewer wiring, includes in-line breakers (instead of fuses)Older oar2 anchors2 Scotty mounts for rod holdersBuilt-in cup holders3 seat cushion life preserversOlder boat cover and middle post. On paper, I doubt it's "trailerable", but we did use it on a few trips. As long as it's strapped down properly, it worked great.Overall, the boat is in great condition, but here are a few disclosures: The hull has typical scuffs and dings as expected with a used boat.The bottom of the hull could use an acid dip -- there is a layer of dried algae.The vinyl flooring is in nearly perfect shape. The carpet on the back, sides, and front floors is worn, but is in overall good shape.The trolling motor head has a small ding on the side, but is otherwise like-newThe bilge pump recently stopped working. I'm not sure if it's a wiring issue or the pump itself simply wore out. Either way, easy/cheap to fix.I'm more than willing to work with a shipping company, but ask that the buyer handles the setup and shipping fees. Otherwise, local pickup. Feel free to ask any questions. Thanks for looking!
Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619
$1
El Cajon, California
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.
