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14 Foot Sailboats Boats for sale
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2007 MacGregor Sailboats 26M
$27,000
Northbridge, Massachusetts
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
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Posted Over 1 Month
2007 MacGregor Sailboats 26M Boat is located in Northbridge,Massachusetts.Please contact the owner @ 508-868-three seven one six...I have a 26 foot sailboat for sale, it is a 2007 MacGregor with almost $14,000.00 in upgrades, trailer included in price. This boat is awesome one of the easiest to sail. It was pulled out of winter storage this year but has not been put in the water since 2011 due to health issues. Email with name and number and I will get back to you. BLUE HULL ROLLER FURLING GENOA GENOA BLOCKS AND SHEETS MAST RAISING SYSTEM COCKPIT SEAT CUSHIONS ALCOHOL STOVE TABLE FILLER CUSHION BOOM VANG SWIM LADDER TRAILER BRAKES SPINNAKER HONDA 50 HP MOTOR MAIN SAIL COVER (C Pacific Blue) 4 LIFE JACKETS 2 FIRE EXTINGUSHERS FLARE KIT COMPASS WITH LIGHT UV ON GE NOA(Pacific Blue) 2ND BATTERY WITH SWITCH EXTRA CAPACITY HEAD TOPPING LIFT AM/FM/CD STEREO GARMIN 178/GPS/CHRT PLOTTER/DEPTH SNDR 12VOLT PANEL WITH METER/OUTLET VHF W/ANTENNAE STERN RAILSEATS 2 FUEL TANKS STRAPS TO HOLD TANKS IN SPARE TIRE MOUNT. Make: MacGregor Sailboats Model: 26M Length: 26 Dealer: BoatsFSBO.com ID: 258389 Ad provided by BoatingBay
2002 HOBIE WAVE 14 FOOT SAIL BOAT READY TO SAIL
$2,750
Beacon Falls, Connecticut
I bought this with hopes of learning how to sail. I realize now that I am not going to learn to sail this year due to my busy schedule already. The boat is located in Middletown CT and I maybe able to drop it off at your location. The boat is a 2002 Hobie Wave 14 foot. It took me a while to find this boat. I see many older (80's and 90's) that sell for $1500 to $2000. I have not found another 2000 or newer model for sale anywhere. The sail was new last year and the rest of the boat is in very good shape and is 100% ready to sail. Low ball offers will be automatically be declined. To replace this with a new one is well over $6000.00 so I think I priced it fairly. https://youtu.be/eLqiHS7aSG8
1980 REBEL SAIL BOAT 14 foot fiberglass Yellow & White & trailer And paperwork
$950
Galena, Illinois
Up for sale in Galena Illinois is a very good condition 14 foot rebel sailboat always stored it in the garage I have the title for the trailer and boat Comes with a trailer and a white sale and wood Rotter The boat has two storage compartments Please call Larry about possible delivery at 815 541 5330 thank's
1993 American Sail 14.6
$1,800
Southold, New York
Category Daysailer Sailboats
Length 15'
Posted Over 1 Month
1993 American Sail 14.6 The American 14.6 is designed for the beginning sailor of any age! This a large, stable sloop offers hassle-free sailing. The 14.6 is a sturdy, deep-cockpit daysailer featuring a 6-foot 2-inch beam, glass kick-up rudder, weighted glass centerboard, and a large built-in storage compartment under the deck. The large cockpit offers room for four adults with generous freeboard with comfortable seats and backrest. The hull is designed to be 80-percent self-bailing, and floats high in the water with a minimum 4-inch draft when empty. Simplicity is enhanced with color-coded main and jib lines, and features simple up and down colored lines for centerboard control. The tabernacle mast allows for quick stepping. The main and jib contain 112 square feet of Dacron sail which - combined with the wide beam, hard chine, and flat bottom hull - performs well in light breezes or a stiff wind. The American 14.6 is recognized as an extremely stable, large, dry, daysailer providing fun for all ages. Package includes a galvanized road trailer with mast stanchion and a motor mount.
1982 Stamas 44
$145,000
Miami Beach, Florida
1982 Stamas 44, This is a Stamas 44 ketch center cockpit, designed and built by Bob Johnson, who went on to design and build Islands Packet sailboats.A/C, bow thruster, 100 hp new engine, custom woodwork in salon, 1000 hr house bank...This boat looks, and is built, like an Island Packet - a true, heavily built fiberglass bluewater boat capable of sailing around the world.The salon has a lot of headroom, and huge wrap around windows for a sailboat. The original owner took out the original windows, and had a custom steel frame installed with half inch plexiglass windows.Master aft cabin with head and dedicated shower, and v-berth with it's own head and shower. Both heads recently rebuilt. New macerator pump and thru hull. 320 gallon fresh water tank. 110 gallon diesel fuel tank. 30 gallon holding tank.98 lockers onboard. The boat has a tall freeboard, carries her 14 foot beam a long way aft, and has tonnes of storage room. Great cruiser.She's 22.5 gross tonnes, 30 000 pounds displacement, 14 beam, 5'1" draft, and fits under the ICW bridges at around 63 feet tall.She spent most of her life in Lake Ontario Canada's fresh water, and I brought her south three years ago after buying her from my parents.It's been in the family for the last 18 years, and has had over $200 000 spent on her in the last ten years upgrading and adding to her.Some upgrades include; new yanmar 100 horsepower turbo diesel ($25k), bowthruster ($17k), rack and pinion steering ($17k), new Mack headsail and mizzen sail ($12k), new feathering prop ($6500), custom interior woodwork, wood floors installed, new Atkins and Hoyle davits 750 pounds limit, avon 11'2" dinghy and 20 horsepower Honda outboard (2003), new frigoboat deep fridge/freezer, ceramic stovetop, washer/dryer, bar fridge, new raymarine autopilot with handheld remote, new hot water heater, new inverter/charger, bilge pumps, all batteries new (11), 10 year old 16500 btu air conditioner barely used until this year, new air conditioning water pump and service, new foam and upholstery, cockpit cushions, center console, windmeter, rockna anchor and chain, electrical panel and wiring for a large part of the boat, high power alternator, new bottom paint ( professionally sanded down to gel coat, two coats hard, four coats ablative ), new engine room blowers, and a honda eu2000 generator, new faucets etc etc, Needs the outside teak redone at this point, though I'll be doing that before too long, the bimini top is on its last legs, and at least needs new stitching.If you want to come see her, we could arrange for you to stay in the V-berth. We're in Miami Beach marina, in South Beach Miami Beach. We could also have a skype walk around tour of sorts beforehand. $145000
2008 Hunter 49
$240,000
Seattle, Washington
2008 Hunter 49 This 2007 Hunter 49 is a versatile,comfortable cruiser, at home at sea or at the dock. She was outfitted to handle the Pacific Northwest weather and seas, with diesel heating, bow thruster, electric winches, furling main and genoa sails, Iverson Dodger and bimini, and three comfortable cabins and two heads, with a salon table that sits 8, as well as a large galley with 2 fridges and a freezer. She also comes with a 6 passenger liferaft, a "Portland Pudgy" unsinkable, very stable tender and a Torqeedo electric outboard that's light, efficient and quiet. Low hours, she is ready to sail and enjoy and one of the lowest 49s on the market. Call for more information. What the experts say about the Hunter 49: "As with all Hunters, there’s never a shortage of sheer accommodation space. The 49 is a beamy boat (14 feet, 9 inches), but doesn’t appear super-beamy. The airy saloon will seat eight for dinner. It has two excellent seaberths and 6-foot, 9-inch headroom. Numerous fixed ports let in lots of light. the boat was condo-comfortable, but also handled the passage without trouble." - Sail Magazine review "Sitting to leeward on a seat designed to let the helmsman lean back against the lifelines and pushpit with feet inboard and a knee on either side of the wheel, I found the boat a pleasure to sail. Heck of a lot of boat for the buck." - Cruising World Review
2005 Hunter 46 LE
$245,000
Palm Beach Gardens, Florida
2005 Hunter 46 LE Brand New to the Market-More Photos to Come!New Winter CoverLow Hours--890 HoursCustom Red Boot StripeGenerator--300 HoursAir ConditioningCustom Interior Hunter’s 46LE hull is broad and voluminous. The boat’s rig and deck are designed for speed and simple handling, but it’s the 460’s abundance of living space and creature comforts that will outshine the last sailboat you owned. The first thing you’ll notice is that the bow is a lot more plumb than many other sailboats, more like a power boat. The 460’s relatively wide 14 foot beam amidships carries well aft, not tapering back sharply to a narrow stern. Under the waterline, the Hunter’s bottom is flatter than many fast sailing hulls, and this helps keep you on “an even keel” – another trait that power boaters appreciate. The standard rigging has no awkward backstay, and it gives you a larger, more powerful mainsail and a smaller jib, so foredeck work is all but eliminated. Although the Hunter 460 can be sailed single handed, it’s designed for at least four adults -- who want to make it up the coast quickly, so they can relax in comfort when they get to their destination.
2008 Gemini 105 MC
$135,000
Marathon, Florida
2008 Gemini 105 MC The Gemini 105 MC Catamaran is the perennial best-selling cruising catamaran with great accommodations, light and airy spaces and good sailing performance all at an affordable price. The Gemini 105 MC features an efficient hull shape, trusted kick up centerboards and rudders, an 18 inch draft and extremely manageable 14 foot beam. The Gemini 105 MC interior and deck mold make the boat strong, light and fast with great cruising amenities. Accommodations feature the master queen cabin forward and two double cabins aft. The Salon has a dinette settee with a 3-piece table suitable for casual seating when closed or dining when open. To Starboard is a large galley with opposing work surfaces, double sink, refrigerator and two burner stove with oven. Forward to Port is the head with counter space, wash basin and shower with an isolating door and two storage lockers. The cockpit is designed for great seating with easy ingress and egress facilitated by normal sized steps to the deck in each corner. Hammock seating aft provides a comfy place to hang out. The solid foredeck provides a safe work area when needed and a spacious lounge area for calm sailing days.
1982 S2 8.5A 28 foot Sailboat with Inboard Yanmar Diesel - In Racine Wisconsin
$2,750
Racine, Wisconsin
**** PLEASE NOTE: Because of the relatively low BUY IT NOW price, payment will be due within 24 hours via paypal. I will send you a paypal invoice after a successful "BUY IT NOW" or an accepted offer. Please only buy or offer if you have positive feedback. Your buy it now or offer constitutes a binding agreement to purchase so please ask questions BEFORE clicking "BUY IT NOW" or making an offer. After receiving your payment I will overnight you the title or meet you in person depending on timing and my availability.**** Very Nice S2 8.5A (28ft) for sale in Racine Wisconsin. I'm expecting a second child soon and really don't want to sell this excellent great lakes cruiser. Clean and clear Wisconsin title.Tiller steering. (always my preference)Inboard Yanmar diesel is extremely clean and fuel efficient. Recent full Yanmar service checkout since boat was last launched.Furling headsail in good shape. Newer mainsail in excellent shape.New Raymarine autopilot professionally installed. Shore power and long power cable. Halyards in good shape.New marine head and holding tank (never used). Chainplates recently professionally rebedded by boatyard. Interior in excellent shape.Solid fiberglass hull. All tabbed in joinery in excellent shape. Cored deck with NO soft spots. Very large cockpit.Includes steel cradle as well. I looked at everything in this size and price range in the lower half of lake Michigan for two years and this is the nicest boat I could find by leaps and bounds. Solid turnkey value. Launch is all ready paid for with the boat yard. You can be in the water tomorrow. No better deal can be found on solid and ready to sail Great Lakes cruiser with a clean inboard diesel - it is just time for me to move it along. Currently out of the water at Racine Riverside Marina in Racine, WI. Summer storage is paid through the end of this month and a launch is included in the purchase. If you chose not to launch until next season the storage rates at the Marina for winter are extremely reasonable and the pre-paid launch will still be yours come next summer. Here is a Review from "Practical Sailor" S2 8.5 MeterThe 8.5 is good for cruising the coasts in comfort and style--as long as you like the modern look.When Leon Slikkers founded S2 Yachts in 1973, much of the attention to detail that had previously characterized Slickcraft powerboats—Slikkers’ earlier boatbuilding venture— traveled with him to the new boatbuilding company. In the 13 years S2 sailboats were in production (S2 still makes powerboats), the company produced a variety of modern cruising designs from the board of Arthur Edmunds, all characterized by longish fin keels, freestanding spade rudders, straight sheerlines, and a staggering variety of draft options and cockpit locations. In the early ’80s, S2 reached more for the performance market with the Grand Slam series of small boats, and the 10.3 “offshore racer-cruiser.” These higher performance boats were designed by Scott Graham and Eric Schlageter, well known for their MORC and smaller IOR designs.The S2 8.5 is a 28-footer cast in the company’s traditional mold. Her hull dimensions, sail area, displacement, and general design characteristics put her square in the middle of the modern 28-footers such as the Tanzer 8.5, Newport 28, O’Day 28, and the Pearson 28.The boat’s styling is conventionally modern. She has a fairly straight sheer, fairly high freeboard, and low, raked cabin trunk with dark tinted flush ports. Production of the 8.5 ran from 1981 to 1983. The boat was replaced by the similar S2 8.6, which continued until S2 stopped making sailboats in 1986.ConstructionThe hull of the S2 8.5 is a solid hand layup. Glasswork is excellent, and is noted by owners as one of the main considerations in buying the boat. Gelcoat quality is excellent.Slight roving printthrough is evident, but it is not objectionable. Minor hard spots are visible in the topsides, probably caused by the attachment of interior furniture and bulkheads.The deck molding is cored with end grain balsa, giving a solid feel underfoot as well as providing reasonable insulating properties.S2’s hull-to-deck joint is the basic type that we would like to see adopted throughout the industry. The hull molding has an inward-turning flange, onto which the deck molding is dropped. The joint is bedded in flexible sealant, and through bolted on six inch intervals by bolts passing through the full length slotted aluminum toerail. The joint is also through bolted across the stem.All deck hardware is properly through bolted, although pulpits, cleats, and winches merely use nuts and washers on the underside of the deck, rather than the aluminum or stainless steel backing plates we prefer.Another feature of the hull-to-deck joint is a heavy, semi-rigid vinyl rubrail at the sheerline, quite aptly termed a “crash rubrail” by S2. This will go a long way toward absorbing the shock of the inevitable encounters with docks and the other hard objects that seem to be attracted to the topsides of the typical sailboat. Although this rail is black when the boat is new, it had dulled to a chalky gray on older S2’s we examined.The builder advertises “bronze seacocks on all through hull fittings.” These are not traditional tapered plug seacocks, but are ball valves mounted directly to through hull fittings. A proper seacock—whether it uses a ball valve or a tapered plug—has a heavy flange to allow through bolting to the hull. This is an important safety feature. Should a valve seize, it may become necessary to apply a great deal of leverage to the handle in order to open or close the valve. The deeply threaded through hull stem can easily break under these conditions, and more than one boat has been lost in this manner.We also suggest that seacocks be installed on the cockpit drain scuppers and the bilge pump outlet, both of which may be under water while the boat is sailing. Light air performance would benefit by the fairing in of the through hull fittings, particularly the head intake and discharge, both of which are far enough forward to have a significant effect on water flow past the hull.Ballast is a 3,000 pound lead casting, epoxied inside a hollow keel shell. We prefer an external lead casting bolted to the hull for its shock-absorbing qualities and ease of repair. This preference was reinforced recently when we examined an old Bristol 27 just sold by a friend. The surveyor noticed dampness near the bottom of the leading edge of the keel, which showed slight external damage. Probing the loose putty revealed some abrasion of the glass keel molding. In order to sell the boat, it was necessary to grind away a large portion of the glass at the front of the keel, dry out the ballast, and reglass the lead—a job that took several days of work and cost our friend a fair chunk of money.Much of the boat’s interior structure is plywood, glassed to the hull. Fillet bonding is neat and workmanlike with no rough edges to be found.Chainplates are conventional stainless steel flat bar, bolted to bulkheads and plywood gussets in the main cabin. These are properly backed with stainless steel pads. Due to the fact that the hull is lined throughout with a carpet-like synthetic material, it is not possible to examine the bonding of the chainplate knees to the hull. The stemhead fitting is a stainless steel weldment, through bolted to the deck and hull and reinforced inside the hull with a stainless steel gusset to prevent deflection of the deck from the pull aft of the headstay. We’d like to see a metal backup pad behind this fitting rather than the washers which are used.General construction is thoughtful and well executed, with excellent glasswork, a strong and simple hull-to-deck joint, and reasonably installed hardware and fittings.Handling Under PowerAlthough some early models of the 8.5 used a seven horsepower BMW diesel, the 1982 version employs an eight horsepower Yanmar. These small Yanmars are quite impressive, light in weight and far smoother than the company’s older rockcrushers.Because of the high freeboard and considerable windage of the 8.5, the standard engine is the absolute minimum power plant for the boat. Recognizing this fact, the company offered a 15 horsepower, two-cylinder Yanmar as an option. For another 75 pounds and $1,150, we would want this option on the boat if the ability to get places under power is a real consideration.The extra fuel consumption of the larger engine will scarcely be noticed. The 18 gallon aluminum fuel tank will probably give a range under power of over 250 miles—more than adequate for a 28 foot cruising boat.The fuel tank is located under the cockpit and is securely mounted and properly grounded. There is an easily reached fuel shut off between the engine and tank. Unfortunately, the fuel fill is located in the cockpit sole. Spilled diesel oil turns even the best fiberglass nonskid into an ice skating rink. Fuel fills should be located on deck, where spills can be efficiently washed away.Engine access is via a large removable panel on the inboard face of the quarterberth. This panel lacks any kind of handhold to make it easily removable, which will discourage regular checking of the engine oil. The top companionway step also removes for access, but it’s a long reach to the dipstick.There is no oil pan under the engine. It will be necessary to be very careful when changing oil to keep the bilge clean. We have yet to see anyone change oil and filters on a boat engine without spilling something.With the quarterberth panel removed, access for routine service is excellent. The quarterberth has remarkable headroom over, so that the mechanic will not feel like a trapped spelunker after a half hour of work. Engine removal will require some joinerwork disassembly.Handling Under SailThe S2 8.5 is no slug under sail. Her PHRF rating of 174 to 180 compares very favorably to other boats of her size and type. The Sabre 28, for example, has a rating of 198. The Pearson 28 about 195, and the O’Day 28 about 198.Part of this is no doubt due to the fact that the standard sails on the boat come from the North loft. While North’s OEM sails may not be the vertical cut Mylar-Kevlar wonders that adorn custom boats, they’re a lot better than most.S2 now uses Hall spars. The simple masthead rig is extremely clean, with airfoil spreaders and internal tangs. The boom features an internal outhaul and provision for two internally-led reefing lines, with cam cleats at the forward end of the boom.The deck-stepped mast is mounted in a stainless steel deck plate incorporating plenty of holes for the attachment of blocks. Halyards and Cunningham lead aft along the cabin house top to a pair of Lewmar #8 winches. Lewmar #16s are optional, but hardly necessary.The main is controlled by a six-part Harken rig mounted on the end of the boom, and a Kenyon traveler mounted on the aft cockpit coaming. This will work fine with the tiller-steered version of the boat. With wheel steering, the mainsheet is likely to be a nuisance to the helmsman.Because of the end-of-boom sheeting, a boom vang will be essential for full mainsail control. Ironically, the boat’s drawings show almost mid-boom sheeting, with the traveler mounted on the bridgedeck at the forward end of the cockpit. This is probably a better arrangement, although it heavily loads the center of the boom and requires more sheeting force.Owners of 8.5s have little but praise for the interior of the boat. The cabin has a wide feeling, created by pushing everything outboard. The “chart area” on the plan is a myth, as far as we can tell.Despite the fact that the shrouds are set well in from the rail, the boat lacks inboard headsail tracks. Rather, you are limited to snatch blocks shackled to the toerail track. A six-foot piece of track set inboard of the rail would be a useful addition.Standard headsail sheet winches are two-speed Lewmar #30s. Options include both larger winches and self-tailers, both of which are worth considering for either racing or cruising. The cockpit coamings are wide enough for mounting larger primaries and secondaries.The high-quality rig and sails add to the price of the S2, but they are additions well worth the cost.Deck LayoutThe deck layout of the 8.5 is clean and functional, with no toe stubbers to catch you unawares. There are two foredeck mooring cleats, but no bow chocks. The necessity to lead an anchor line well off the boat’s centerline, coupled with high freeboard forward, is likely to result in a boat which sails around on her anchor or mooring. The 8.5 has a pair of wide stainless steel chafing strips at the bow which will greatly protect the deck from the chafe of the anchor line.The 8.5’s foredeck anchor well is one of the best we’ve seen. It is shallow—just deep enough to hold an anchor and adequate rode. There are double scuppers, which offer less likelihood of clogging. The lid is held on by a full-length piano hinge, and there is a positive latch.The shallow locker well above the waterline means that water is less likely to enter through the scuppers, which can be a real problem with a deep anchor well. When the bow pitches into waves, a deep anchor well can fill with water, and if the scuppers clog with debris, you can find yourself sailing around with several hundred pounds of extra weight in the worst possible position. There is no provision for securing the bitter end of the anchor rode, but a big galvanized eyebolt installed in the well by the owner will solve that one.The running lights leave something to be desired. Their location at deck level just aft of the stem makes them vulnerable to damage when handling ground tackle. We much prefer an international style bicolor mounted on the pulpit, another two feet off the water: easier to see, and out of the way. Wiring for the running lights is exposed in the anchor well, and should be secured out of the way.A recessed teak handrail runs the full length of the cabin trunk, serving the dual function of heavy weather handhold and cabin trim piece. Its shape makes it far easier to oil or varnish than the conventional round handrail, although the wide, flat section seems somewhat awkward after years of grabbing round rails.The 8.5’s cockpit is the maximum size we’d want to see on a boat of this size. The T-shape is designed to accommodate the optional wheel steerer, yielding a somewhat odd layout for the tiller-steered version. A bench seat spans the aft end of the cockpit. Although this makes good seating in port, we doubt that you’d want anyone sitting there under sail: too much weight in the end of the boat. It does make a natural helmsman’s seat for wheel steering.The engine controls and instrument panel are also located at the aft end of the cockpit, and are basically inaccessible to the helmsman of a tiller-steered version.There are two lifting lids in the aft cockpit bench, giving access to a cavernous space under the cockpit. To be useful, dacron bags should be fitted to the inside of these lockers. Then, they’ll be handy stowage for spare sheets and blocks.There are comfortable contoured seats along each side of the cockpit, with a huge locker under the port seat. Although plywood pen boards somewhat separate this locker from the engine space under the cockpit, it would be far too easy for deeply piled junk to get knocked over the board and into the engine. This locker should be partitioned into smaller spaces unless it is to be used exclusively as a sail locker.The battery boxes, fitted at the forward end of the locker, could benefit from plywood or fiberglass lids to keep battery acid off gear which might find its way onto the batteries. The box is designed to take two batteries—one battery is standard—stored in plastic containers. A single lid covering the whole box would be more efficient.The huge cockpit will accommodate up to six for sailing, and eight for in-port partying. The cockpit seat bottoms are contoured, and the cockpit coamings slope outboard for more comfortable seating. However, the seats are both too narrow and too short for sleeping.The forward end of the cockpit is protected by a narrow bridgedeck. However, the cockpit coatings extend a full foot above the level of the bridgedeck, To block the companionway to the level of the top of the coamings will require leaving two of the three drop boards in place when sailing.Although there is moderate taper to the sides of the companionway, making it easier to remove the drop boards, it is still necessary to lift each board about five inches before it can be removed. This is far safer than many tapered companionways, where boards practically fall out if you look at them wrong. The companionway slide is one of the best we’ve seen. It’s a contoured piece of acrylic fitted with a convenient grabrail. It slides easily in extruded aluminum channels, and is fitted with a fiberglass storm hood. As on many boats, the aft cabin bulkhead slopes forward, rendering it impossible to leave the drop boards out for ventilation when it rains.BelowdecksOwners consistently praise the interior design and finishing of S2 sailboats. From looking at the 8.5, it’s pretty easy to see why.There are no exposed interior fiberglass surfaces except the head floor pan molding. The hull and cabin overhead are lined with a carpet-like synthetic fabric. While this will undoubtedly cut down on condensation, we at first wondered how this fabric would hold up over time. Inevitably, the hull liner and even the overhead will get wet. In freshwater areas, this is no problem. The water will eventually evaporate. In salt water, however, wet fabric never seems to dry. Salt draws moisture like a magnet draws steel. Since first seeing this boat, however, we’ve had good experiences with the fabric. Be sure, however, to get a good wet-or-dry vacuum to keep it clean.Interior layout is fairly conventional, with Vberths forward, and immediately aft, a full width head. The head can be closed off from both the forward cabin and the main cabin with solid doors—a real luxury in a boat this size. There is a large hanging locker in the head, and reasonable storage space for toilet articles.The word for the main cabin is “wide,” with the settees pushed as far outboard as they can go. Décor is a little heavy on the teak for our taste, but it is one of the better coordinated interiors we have seen. S2 had a good interior decorator.A fold-down dining table seats four. When folded against the bulkhead, it is held in place by a single latch, which makes us nervous.Neither settee is full length. The foot of the port settee runs under the galley counter, making it long enough for sleeping, although your feet may feel a little claustrophobic in the tiny footwell.The starboard settee is an unusual configuration. The aftermost 12" of the settee folds up to form an arm rest, leaving a gap between the end of the settee and the head of the quarterberth.Inexplicably, this gap is referred to on the accommodation plan as a “charting area,” although there is neither a standard nor an optional chart table. It’s sort of like the designer ran out of energy before completing the interior design.Over the non-existent “charting area” is the best electrical panel we’ve seen on a 28 foot boat. The panel has a locking battery switch, battery test meter, and a panel with room for 14 circuit breakers, although only half are installed on the standard boat.The space is welcome, since with the proliferation of marine electronics most electrical panels are woefully inadequate.Most quarterberths tend to induce claustrophobia. That of the 8.5 is more likely to exacerbate any tendencies you might have to agoraphobia. At last, a quarterberth which will not give you a concussion when you sit bolt upright in the middle of the night after your neighbor drags down on you in a wind shift.The standard main cabin sole is carpet-covered fiberglass. For an additional $325, teak and holly was available for the traditionalist. We’d want it. Unfortunately there is no access to the bilge in the main cabin. None. This is inexcusable, and could be dangerous. A few hours with a saber saw should solve this rather basic problem.The galley is workable and accessible, with no awkward posturing required to do the dishes. The sink gets an A+. It is a full nine inches deep, is large enough to take a frying pan, and mounted close to the centerline.In contrast, the icebox gets a C-. It is larger than normal on a boat of this size, but it drains to the bilge, has a poorly insulated top, and a tiny, uninsulated hatch without a trace of a gasket. Boo.Because of limited counter space, the two burner Kenyon alcohol stove is mounted athwartships, rather than fore and aft. This means that the stove cannot be gimballed, and that it is necessary to reach across the inboard burner to reach the outboard one. Given the fact that countertop gimballed stoves are usually dangerous, the lack of gimballing doesn’t bother us much. What does bother us is that if you want to upgrade the stove to something more functional, the limited space allocated will stretch your ingenuity.A fold down table at the end of the galley counter gives additional counter space, but it must be left up in order to use the port settee for sleeping.Roominess, excellent execution, and good color coordination are trademarks of the interiors of all S2s, and the 8.5 fits well into this enviable tradition.ConclusionsThe S2 8.5 is a good boat for cruising the Great Lakes or any coast in comfort and a certain amount of style. Her appearance may be a little modern for traditionalists, with her straight sheer and European-style cabin windows.Pricey? Yes, but when you look at the things that go into the boat—the rig, good sails, and a comfortable, well finished interior—the price may seem a bit less painful. You still pay for what you get.
Morgan WEST INDIES 36 SAILBOAT...Beautiful... in St Pete Fl.. EXTENSIVE refit
$36,500
St. Petersburg, Florida
Category Cruiser Motorcycles
Length 36.5
Posted Over 1 Month
Gorgeous, ...over 65k spent on refit....***1996 Perkins M30 fresh water cooled diesel***, low hrs. starts runs, excellent, no smoke, new oil and filter perkins m30 owners manuel Brand new bottom paint, 3 coats...12/2016, @ $2000 Built and designed by Charlie Morgan in Clearwater Fl. hull #4 of 40 built 36.5 feet on deck....38 feet overall length Heavy, thick hand laid FG hull and deck, combined with original robust construction... FAR EXCEEDS standard sailboats such as: islander, catalina, irwin,pearson, columbia, hunter, ericson etc... 11, newer solid Stainless Steel ports. 2 newer SS Lewmar deck Hatches. all new running rigging. newer ss Norseman cones all around custom SS mount mid boom mainsheet track with all new blocks '14 newer turnbuckles oversized lower shrouds internal halyards ***2014,... new (5) thick oversized massive SS electropolished chainplates. ... external lead keel dropped: new SS studs and bolts, and new SS backing plates, then rebed...new SS awthwartship stringers thrubolted under cabin sole...along with new SS mast step..rudder dropped, new rudder gland with new packing, new steering quadrant, new SS rudder boss, new steering cables....2014......all these above;...exceptional, laborious, expensive, extensive comprehensive metal refits. .****. seperates this vessel from just about any other vessel from this era....truly an incredible update refit..., on a deserving, thick , strong hull and deck..**** ..she's ready for another 50 years of service....*** an outstanding, capable sailing vessel...virtually one of a kind...! Pride of ownership evident Throughout!... mast rewired '14 new masthead tricolor light new mast mount foredeck light deck completely stripped of all hardware and Imron jet aircraft painted 2007, topsides and deck; with blue cove and boot stripes, shiny and beautiful...bulletproof...$600/ gallon,...yet another major, massive Expensive upgrade...update... new 2014 Garmin 740s color , touchscreen GPS navigation station vhf radio, stereo CD, dual speakers all new hoses and ss clamps on 1996 Perkins diesel engine and exhaust new engine water pump, 2014 merely 1100 hours,( low hrs.) on 1996 Perkins M30 diesel, ....runs, starts excellent, no smoke. new oil and filter on engine 12/16. new 1" thick engine room insulation /sound deadening new Raycor fuel filter plastic 28 gallon fuel tank, engine burns 1/2 gal /hour @ 6 knots cruise. 2 plastic water tanks, 80 gallons water total new cutlass bearing and shaft packing, '14,... 3 blade prop new 6 volt golf cart batteries,235 amps,... new deep cycle 12 volt engine start battery 135 amps.... 10/16 Pro mariner 20 amp 3 bank automatic battery charger new hi output 95 amp alternator and belt 6/16 new LPG princess 3 burner SS stove and oven new xtra custom cockpit scuppers with bronze valves, '14,... total 4 scuppers in cockpit new cockpit cushions '14 Teak cockpit floor grate, with blue canvas cover new canvas '14; to include... mains'l cover, hatch covers, new bimini top, new custom main compainionway hatch cover,... teak grate cockpit floor canvas cover. all new interior cushions '14 Excellent Lavac vacuum head, manuel, with 15 gal. plastic holding tank. 7 cu ft ice box with '90's engine driven grunert refrig freezer with holding cold plates, 1/2 hp compressor, needs work or replacement. newer stem head backing plate. CPT wheel autopilot, excellent 2009, over $2100 when new... new masthead windex '14. Simply, a magnificent well found sailing vessel, visually appears to be about 5 yrs old....Stunning,... everyone who sees her compliments her classic beauty. 55ft mast, 695 sail area yields excellent sailing performance, sails and rigging in very good condition.. 36' 5" on deck, 38 ft. overall, 4'2" draft, centerboard delete, trunk filled with 300lbs.lead and epoxy then sealed, Large rudder with large full skeg,.. 7300 lb.external lead keel,..17,000 lbs. dry unloaded...20,000 lbs. cruise loaded.... 12 ft beam,...* 32 foot long waterline.... sturdy , stable, stout, solid and strong... ..capable of sailing anywhere in the world.. USCG documented vessel,... no liens , privately owned outright. twin anchor rollers on extended spit, thus 38 ft overall, with dual hawse pipes and 2 anchor rodes with chain, 35 lb, cqr anchor. custom cockpit table/box stows 2 10lb LPG bottles and more newer inner forestay and running backs, cutter rig can be an option. or storm foresail hanked on. Airmar 200wx wx nav station, with masthead sensor, 2014 Airmar DT 800 bronze tranducer with 20 degree forward look 2014 16000 BTU marine Airconditioned,... cools excellent in summer Fl. heat 2014 ;NMEA 2000 wiring... for plug and play electronics and accessories SS Dodger frame included,no canvas though new marine 6 gal water heater,w new hoses new shower sump box with dedicated pump new cabin floor,..3 epoxy barrier coats applied , then 3 coats of bottom paint, no blisters. This vessel would have an Impeccable survey should you wish to have one...truly,... a one of a kind find...This boat has no rot, no rust,no blistering of any kind,... anywhere.. All bulkhead taping to hull is as the day she left the factory!... the interior frp liner/headliner is thick, solid strong and shiny!! 6' 4" headroom all interior cabinets and storages, cleaned and painted with quality superhard mildew mold resistant white exterior paint. CLEAN....! the bilge in this boat is...clean This boat has a cameo appearance in the 2011 Hollywood movie "Dolphin Tale" filmed in Clearwater FL. Kris Kristofferson lives on her in this acclaimed flick. The sailing photo is of this actual vessel taken after Imron paint. knowledgable, experienced, x captain, liveaboard cruiser, x boat builder, rigger; older private seller/sailor,.... needs no brokers or help in selling this fine boat,... whatsoever! over 800 labor hours of love and attention in the past 19 months, and it shows. She is exactly as pictured! Exceptional!... replacement cost? conservatively... $95,000 +, estimated professional survey value $64,000+...realistically priced at $36,500. numerous tools, spare parts, chart kits, hardware, screens , literature, magazines included in sale. she appears ....exactly.....as she is in the pictures....! looks better in person actually...a fine little ship... buyer responsible for vessel pick up in St Pete. Florida she could be kept at the same non liveaboard private house dock. she needs dodger canvas cover for supplied ss frame, fridge install, windlass (if your not younger) 1 more anchor bad back/disc forces reluctant sale..this is my dream boat; wanted to sail the Bahamas/Caribbean again...physically can't... more pictures available upon serious buyer phone request. also for sale at: sailboatlistings.com and Tampa Craigslist [email protected] seller, [email protected] not responsible for any shipping , buyer pays for any shipping costs. buyer must make full payment within 3 days. On Jan-19-17 at 07:26:36 PST, seller added the following information: The boat can be kept at its current dock/slip in south st pete fl. On Jan-19-17 at 12:26:10 PST, seller added the following information: Listed on SailboatListings.com
2009 Catalina Yachts 387 Wing Keel
$219,900
New Port Richey, Florida
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
the interior is good-looking with teak & holly sole and extremely comfortable. Long and wide double berths fore and aft with innerspring mattresses & accessible storage. Large cabin with convertible dinette louvered lockers and 6 9 of headroom; top and front loading large refrigerator/freezer with commercial grade hardware; three burner gimbaled stainless steel stove; convertible dinette to starboard that functions as single berth or settee; nav station desk fits large format chart books; complete electrical panel with room for expansion. Built to accentuate style performance and comfort Catalina has become the choice of sailors worldwide. She features a roomy cockpit and comfortable interior with two private staterooms. customContactInformation Call Rick Beshore at 717-873-6051 or email at [email protected] to schedule a showing Sailboats Racing 8536 PSN . A buyer should instruct his agents or his surveyors to investigate such details as the buyer desires validated. On deck we have a spacious cockpit with bimini top & dodger cushioned seating cockpit drop leaf table and Edson Diamond pedestal helm. the head compartment with vanity and shower is located starboard opposite the galley. Call now to schedule a showing of this wonderful Catalina. Equipped with a wing keel designed for shallow water this 387 will get to places otherwise unaccessible. A bow thruster aids in docking and low speed maneuvering the Raymarine electronics include: GPS chart plotter multi-function display speed log wind indicator depth sounder auto pilot Jensen CD sound Sirius receiver Ritchie compass and VHF DSC radio. the Catalina is well equipped carefully maintained and is ready to sail. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale price change or withdrawal without notice. Overview the Catalina 387 features masthead rig with double spreaders and full batten main sail; electric winch for main halyard / mainsheet; Edson Diamond Series pedestal complete with custom instrument housings; electric windlass for rope and chain with power up and down switches; double stainless steel offset anchor roller. Auxiliary power is provided by a Yanmar 40-hp diesel engine. the master aft cabin features centerline queen berth under-berth storage hanging lockers and dual dressing areas with settees. Optional Equipment Wing Keel Furling Mast Vertical Battens for Furling Mast Bow Thruster A/C w/ Reverse Heat Raymarine C-80-8" LCD Color Chartplotter Smart Pilot ST-6002 ICOM M422 DSC VHF Radio w/ Command Mic in Cockpit Wind Package Ray ST-60 26" LCD HDTV w/ DVD Jenson CD w/Sirius Tuner & Bose 151 SE Speakers Extension Leaf for Main Cabin Table Centerline Aft Berth Generator 4 kw Panda Bimini Dodger Folding Leatherwrap Wheel Second Fridge in Galley Accommodations Two stateroom upscale interior Forward cabin with queen berth Spacious salon with 6'9" of headroom Large ultra leather settee with table converts to double berth Convertible ultra leather seating with center table to starboard Nav station with chart table with electronics and electrical panel Full galley to port custom second fridge added Enclosed head with mirrored vanity and shower stall Master aft cabin with optional centerline queen berth Galley L-shaped teak cabinets Upper and lower storage Solid surface counter Stainless steel sink Custom Second Top loading freezer Gimbaled 3-burner range with oven Front and Top loading refrigerator Microwave oven Sail Area IJPE : 719.00 sq ft I : 50.92 ft J : 14.67 ft P : 44.17 ft E : 15.67 ft Deck & Hull Stainless steel rails Bow pulpit with double roller Anchor & windlass w/helm and pulpit controls Chain locker w/50' chain and 150' rode Furling mast Vertical battens for furling mainsail Aft cockpit with bimini and dodger Wing keel Optional Bow thruster Electronics & Navigation Raymarine C80 color LCD chartplotter with 8" display Smart Pilot ST-6002 Icom M422 DSC VHF radio with Command Mic at Helm Raymarine ST60 wind package 26" LCD HD TV with DVD Jensen CD sound system Sirius tuner Bose speakers Mechanical & Electrical Yanmar 40-hp diesel engine w/ 225 hours Panda 4-kW generator w/48 hours Inverter 30-amp shore power Reverse cycle HVAC 12 000 and 6 000 Units Raritan electric head Optional Bow thruster Disclaimer the Company offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. Aft berth is over 8 feet long. the salon is open with wraparound ultra leather settee and dining table to port with convertible seating and fold-away table to starboard. the L-shaped galley is located aft and is equipped with a stainless steel three-burner range with oven top and front loading refrigerators microwave oven and cabinets with solid surface counter and stainless steel sink. Well designed two compartment head and enclosed stall shower with bi-fold door. Large roomy cockpit with 9 foot seats walk-thru transom with hot water shower. the forward stateroom has v-berth under-berth storage and hanging locker. There are two private cabins. This sloop-rigged cruiser has mainsail with Schaefer roller furling system genoa aluminum mast and boom stainless steel rigging and self-tailing winches. 2009 Catalina Yachts 387 Wing Keel Location: Cape Coral FL US (LOCATION: Cape Coral FL) the Catalina 387 has earned an international reputation as the leader ...
Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619
$1
El Cajon, California
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.
